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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · central · hue

Che Hat Sen:顺化人钟爱至今的莲子甜汤

莲子甜汤在顺化宫廷料理中有着深厚的渊源,是越南最含蓄精致的甜品之一。以下是你享用这道美食所需了解的一切。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20265 分钟阅读
Close-up of a traditional street food setup featuring duck eggs, herbs, lime, and spices on an orange stool.
↑ Close-up of a traditional street food setup featuring duck eggs, herbs, lime, and spices on an orange stool.Photo by FOX ^.ᆽ.^= ∫ on Pexels
Tags
#che hat sen#deep dive#guide#food#hue cuisine#royal cuisine#dessert#lotus#sweet soup#street food
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    Hue 有一种将简单食材赋予仪式感的传统,而“che hat sen”(莲子甜汤)正是这一传统的最佳例证。它并不浮夸,不会用大桶盛装,也不会成为社交媒体上落日余晖下的摆拍主角。它只是一小杯温热、清甜且带有淡淡花香的甜汤,一旦你尝过正宗的版本,就会纳闷为什么它没有风靡各地。

    究竟什么是 Che Hat Sen

    从本质上讲,che hat sen 是一道以干莲子或鲜莲子为核心,在清甜糖水中煨煮而成的甜汤。莲子本身是这道甜品的灵魂——它们呈淡绿色或象牙色,大约像大颗鹰嘴豆那么大,口感介于煮熟的栗子和软糯的白豆之间。莲子味道温和,略带淀粉质感;如果未去除绿色的莲芯,中心会有一丝清苦。好的店铺总是会去掉莲芯,而差的则不会。

    糖水通常使用冰糖(duong phen)而非精制白糖,这使得甜味更加清爽,不会过于甜腻。有些版本在煨煮过程中会加入几滴茉莉花萃取液或新鲜香兰叶,这能提升整体风味却又不会喧宾夺主。它通常用小杯(多为手绘陶瓷杯)盛装,温热上桌,与其说是街头小吃,倒更像是一顿正式餐点后的收尾甜品。

    而这正是它的起源。

    顺化的宫廷渊源

    Hue 的饮食文化从不让你忘记其皇室背景,che hat sen 也不例外。这道甜品与阮朝宫廷有着明确的关联,当时莲花作为纯洁与觉悟的象征,出现在饮食、建筑和礼仪中。Imperial Citadel 的护城河至今仍环绕着荷花池;莲花印章也曾出现在皇家文件中。在将烹饪视为艺术的宫廷中,使用莲子制作精致甜点,在文化和审美上都顺理成章。

    皇家“che”(甜汤类甜品的统称)分量较小,强调质而非量——这种逻辑在君主制结束后,依然保留在顺化的街头饮食文化中。即使在今天,顺化 che hat sen 的分量往往也比你在 Saigon 找到的要小,这并非吝啬,而是对传统的坚守。

    越南会安街头色彩缤纷的 chè 甜品碗。

    摄影:Nguyễn Thị Thảo Hà (Ha Nguyen),来源:Pexels

    主要变体

    热食或冷食

    顺化的经典版本是热食,糖水温度略高于室温,莲子软糯却不失形。在 Saigon 和 Da Nang,冷食版本变得同样普遍——浇在碎冰上,或冷藏后装在塑料杯中供应。冷食的 che hat sen 也很不错,尤其是在南方炎热的天气里,但热食更能品味出其风味的精髓。

    配龙眼 (Long Nhan)

    一种流行的搭配是将莲子与龙眼肉结合,即“che hat sen long nhan”——龙眼的果香甜味与莲子质朴的口感相得益彰。这个版本风味更浓郁,香气更足,多见于顺化至 Hoi An 一带。

    配红枣 (Tao Do) 或桂圆干 (Nhan Nhuc)

    在更北方的 Hanoi,你偶尔会见到用红枣或桂圆干制作的 che hat sen,这使得甜味更深沉,并带有一丝焦糖风味。这种变体更接近受中国影响的甜汤,虽然不具备顺化的“血统”,但作为对比尝试也很有趣。

    在 Banh Chung 及礼仪场合中

    莲子也常作为某些版本“banh chung(粽子)”及其他礼仪米食的馅料,尽管这完全是另一种语境——如果你在更广泛地研究越南饮食中的莲子,这值得了解。

    如何点餐

    走进顺化的 che 店,如果你不知道自己在看什么,可能会感到眼花缭乱——大多数店铺在玻璃柜台后陈列着十二到二十种不同品种的甜汤。如果你无法用语言沟通,直接指向莲子即可,大多数摊主会立刻明白。

    如果你想吃热的,请说“nong”(热)。在顺化,默认通常就是热的,但在靠近游客的店铺里,他们有时会默认外国人想要冷食。在顺化,一杯标准的价格为 10,000 至 20,000 VND。在 Saigon 或 Hanoi,25,000 至 35,000 VND 是正常价格。如果你在街头摊位支付的价格高于此,请重新评估。

    慢慢享用。它不是饮料。使用提供的小勺,每一口舀上一颗莲子和一点糖水,不要匆忙。

    宁静的亚洲花园,拥有池塘、华丽的屋顶、郁郁葱葱的植被和复杂的雕塑。

    摄影:Valeria Drozdova,来源:Pexels

    在哪里品尝经典版本

    Che Ba Cung — 顺化。 这是城中最受推崇的 che 店之一,位于东巴市场(Dong Ba Market)附近的一条窄巷内。这里的莲子甜汤用手绘杯盛装,热气腾腾,糖水甜度适中。没有英文菜单;指点并付款即可。

    Che Hem — 岘港。 位于韩江(Han River)附近的一家巷弄小店,提供非常地道的 che hat sen long nhan(龙眼莲子汤),平衡了顺化的克制与 Saigon 的亲民。如果你路过岘港,值得一试,不必特地前往。

    Quan Che Hue — Saigon,第三郡。 Saigon 有几家自称顺化风味 che 的专门店。这家位于第三郡的店铺提供陶瓷杯装的温热莲子甜汤,还有十几种其他品种,是你在南方能找到的最忠实于顺化传统的味道之一。价格约为 30,000 VND,店面较小且拥挤。

    实用小贴士

    Che hat sen 是一年四季皆宜的甜品,并非季节性食物,尽管新鲜莲子在 7 月至 9 月间更为常见,那时越南中部各地的池塘里荷花盛开。如果你是专程为了美食前往顺化,它与皇城附近的宫廷料理体验非常契合。此外,搭配一杯莲花茶(“tra sen”)也是个不错的选择,它以另一种方式呼应了同样的风味基调。