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海防市有着令人惊叹的甜食文化。这条包含 5 个站点的品鉴路线将带你领略糯米糕、甜汤、复古冰淇淋以及城中最棒的月饼店。
最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。
关于这座城市的其他文章。
Hai Phong has a serious food scene that most visitors overlook. Here's where to eat well — breakfast, lunch, and dinner — without crossing 50,000 VND.
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Hai Phong has a coffee scene that runs deeper than the classic iced milk coffee — from pavement stools at dawn to a quiet third-wave presence that locals are quietly proud of.
Hai Phong has a serious drinking culture that most visitors fly past on the way to Ha Long. Here is where the city actually drinks, from fresh draft corners to a nascent craft scene.
本地区其他文章。
Fresh draft beer for 8,000 VND a glass, plastic stools on the pavement, and a system that resets every morning. Here's where to actually drink bia hoi in Hanoi.
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海防作为美食之都的地位常被低估。大多数游客在前往 Cat Ba 或 Ha Long Bay 的途中匆匆经过，只会顺手买个 "banh mi" 或 "bun cua" 就离开了。这是一个遗憾——尤其是如果你错过了这里的甜点。这座港口城市有着独特的甜食传统，深受法式烘焙、中式糕点以及入夜后依然热闹的街头饮食文化影响。以下是一条你可以用一个下午走完，或者分摊到整个晚上慢慢品味的五站式路线。
从距离市中心 Tam Bac 湖步行五分钟的 Dinh Tien Hoang 街开始，那里聚集了许多 "che" 摊位。"Che" 是越南甜汤和布丁的总称——在海防，当地口味偏向于 "che ba mau"（三色甜汤，由绿豆沙、斑斓果冻和椰奶分层，配上碎冰）以及 "che khoai mon"（芋头配浓郁椰浆）。一碗的价格在 15,000–25,000 VND 之间。建议下午去，那时冰块最新鲜，椰奶也不会放置太久。这里的摊位大多是简单的塑料椅布置；别想太多，看中哪个点哪个就行。
乘车五分钟前往老市场区，你会发现海防最被低估的甜点之一："banh gai"。这是一种致密的糯米糕，加入了苎麻叶提取物，使其呈现出深邃的近乎黑色的色泽。馅料通常是混合了椰丝甚至芝麻的甜绿豆沙。糕点用干香蕉叶包裹，带有一丝淡淡的烟熏味。在 Tran Phu 市场入口处，你会看到摊贩们将这些深色的糕点整齐地堆成金字塔状。每个大约 8,000–12,000 VND，如果你想带回住处慢慢享用，它们也非常方便携带。这种糕点口感软糯，值得细细品味。
图片来源：Jimmy Liao，来自 Pexels
海防人对复古的越南 "kem" 有着一种安静的执着——那种用金属杯盛装或用木棍拿着吃的冰淇淋，而不是华夫饼筒装的。市中心 Nguyen Duc Canh 街沿线的小型 kem 店提供椰子、榴莲和斑斓口味，全部为自制。一杯价格在 10,000–20,000 VND。这虽然不是手工意式冰淇淋，但椰子口味浓郁且带着微微的冰渣感，榴莲口味极其浓烈，斑斓口味则呈现出像交通灯一样的鲜艳色彩。在潮湿的北方午后，当你已经步行了两个小时，这正是你最需要的慰藉。这里的一些摊位还提供 "kem xoi"——在糯米饭上加一个冰淇淋球，听起来很奇怪，但味道却出奇地好。
海防的 Hoang Van Thu 街沿线聚集了一批家族经营的烘焙店，几十年来一直制作 "banh trung thu"（月饼）。在 Tet Trung Thu（中秋节）临近时，这些店面最为热闹，橱窗里摆满了精致的礼盒，人行道上弥漫着莲蓉烘焙的香气。但其中几家店全年都供应月饼，尤其是混合坚果和咸蛋黄馅的烘焙款。根据大小和馅料不同，单个月饼的价格在 35,000–80,000 VND 之间。即使在节日之外，这些店也生产 "banh dau xanh"（绿豆糕）和其他值得一试的传统糕点。其工艺明显比超市里买到的更加考究。
图片来源：Quang Nguyen Vinh，来自 Pexels
过去十年里，甜点咖啡馆风潮席卷了越南各大城市，海防也不例外。在 Do Son 路沿线，有几家店做得比一般水平更用心。寻找那些提供 "trang mieng" 拼盘的店——通常是斑斓蛋糕、新鲜芒果布丁和某种凉粉的组合——再配上一杯地道的 Vietnamese coffee。这里的价格比街头摊位高：甜点拼盘 45,000–75,000 VND，"ca phe sua da"（越南冰咖啡）30,000–45,000 VND。环境有空调，摆盘也适合拍照，这正是重点所在。这是在返回海滨之前作为最后一站的绝佳选择，咖啡也能帮你从四轮糖分轰炸中恢复清醒。
整条路线全长约 4–5 公里，最适合安排在午后至傍晚，下午 3 点左右开始，此时 che 摊位正忙碌，而晚上结束后烘焙店依然营业。在各站点之间，可以通过 xe om（摩托车出租）或 Grab 往返。整个五站之旅的预算大约在 150,000–200,000 VND，这已经非常充裕了。