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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · north · hanoi

Hanoi 咖啡文化:不止于 Ca Phe Sua Da

Hanoi 的咖啡文化远不止街头塑料凳上的冰奶咖啡——从街边滴漏咖啡到专业的第三波精品烘焙,这里有一份深度品鉴指南。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20265 分钟阅读
Coffee grinders and espresso machine on a cafe counter, featuring Vietnam flag.
↑ Coffee grinders and espresso machine on a cafe counter, featuring Vietnam flag.Photo by 🇻🇳🇻🇳 Việt Anh Nguyễn 🇻🇳🇻🇳 on Pexels
Tags
#hanoi#food guide#city guide#food#coffee#ca phe#drinks#street food
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最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。

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    Da Nang at 6am: What Locals Actually Eat for Breakfast

    Hanoi 是靠咖啡运转的。这不仅仅是那种城市宣传式的口号,而是实实在在的结构性存在:从清晨 6 点的街头小憩,到午夜过后依然灯火通明的学习据点。

    基础知识:你所了解的那些

    “Ca phe sua da”——加炼乳的冰咖啡——是大多数游客接触的第一站,这不无道理。它确实好喝。在街边摊,一杯售价约为 20,000–35,000 VND,端上来时那种强烈的甜味和冰爽感,正是你在七月酷暑中最渴望的。滴漏壶(被称为“phin”)架在杯口,需要一点时间等待。这种缓慢是有意为之的。Hanoi 的咖啡从不追求效率。

    热黑咖啡——“ca phe den”——制作工艺相同,不加奶也不加冰。如果你想品尝咖啡原本的味道,点这个就对了。越南罗布斯塔咖啡豆口感醇厚、带有泥土气息且苦味明显;有些人一喝就爱上,有些人则需要几天时间适应。无论如何,它都是真实纯粹的。

    喝这些咖啡的最佳地点并非 Hoan Kiem 湖边那些面向游客的店铺。走进老城区(Old Quarter)或 Nguyen Du 街附近的任何一条窄巷,寻找那些你见过的最低矮的塑料凳,找一位带着保温瓶的阿姨,看看车把手上挂着头盔的排队人群。那就是你要找的地方。

    蛋咖啡:Hanoi 的独家发明

    “蛋咖啡”——ca phe trung——由 Nguyen Huu Huan 街上的 Giang Cafe 发明,他们自 1946 年起就开始制作这款饮品。故事是这样的:战后炼乳稀缺,创始人便用蛋黄加糖打发作为替代品。成品介于咖啡和甜点之间:一小杯浓郁的罗布斯塔咖啡,顶部覆盖着一层厚实、温热、如卡仕达酱般的泡沫。

    Giang Cafe 至今仍在楼上一间狭小昏暗的房间里供应这款咖啡,售价约 30,000 VND。单是为了那个房间也值得一去——墙上挂满了装裱的照片,家具古色古香,整个空间弥漫着烘焙咖啡和烟草的味道。

    同样位于老城区的 Dinh Cafe 也有非常地道的版本,环境稍显舒适一些。一些新兴的第三波咖啡馆开始尝试用阿拉比卡豆和较少的糖来制作蛋咖啡——虽然有趣,但那是另一种饮品了。

    Little Hanoi 两杯带有鲜奶油的冰咖啡特写,是休息放松的绝佳选择。

    摄影:Pragyan Bezbaruah,来源:Pexels

    超越经典

    过去十年里,Hanoi 的咖啡菜单有了显著扩展,这不仅仅是从首尔或墨尔本引入冷萃潮流那么简单。

    酸奶咖啡——ca phe sua chua——正如其名:将浓缩滴漏咖啡倒入越南风味的酸奶和冰块中。听起来很奇怪?其实不然。口感顺滑、微酸,且提神。大多数供应此饮品的店铺售价约为 35,000 VND。

    椰子咖啡的流行时间比 Instagram 上的网红贴文要久远得多。一杯冷滴漏咖啡混合椰奶——有时是椰子冰淇淋——售价 40,000–55,000 VND,其美味程度远超你的想象。

    **莲花茶**与咖啡的混合饮品较为少见,但 Hoan Kiem 湖附近的一些传统老店会有供应。茶的草本苦味以一种奇妙而愉悦的方式中和了罗布斯塔咖啡的浓烈。

    如果你喜欢更轻盈、更现代的口味,使用来自 Da Lat 或 Son La 的单一产地阿拉比卡豆制作的“越南咖啡”也越来越容易找到。如今,一些烘焙商精心采购并专业冲煮,这意味着你可以喝到一杯干净、带有果香的咖啡,而不再是那种作为大宗出口商品的罗布斯塔咖啡。

    在哪里享受“慢时光”

    Hanoi 一直有着“一杯咖啡坐很久”的文化理念。这座城市的咖啡馆文化以一种 Saigon 那种快节奏城市所不具备的方式,奖励着每一个有耐心的人。

    Nhan Cafe 隐藏在 Ba Dinh 区 Nhan 街的一栋窄屋里,常客们会在这里点上一杯 ca phe den 坐上两个小时,没人会打扰他们。深色木质家具、吊扇、收音机,滴漏咖啡约 25,000 VND。

    Dinh Liet 街上的 The Note Coffee 已经非常商业化了——墙面上贴满了数以千计的纸条——但饮品品质稳定,且屋顶的风景值得一看。

    若追求第三波精品咖啡,Van Mieu(文庙)附近的 Tranquil Books & Coffee 将严肃的藏书与高品质的滤泡咖啡结合在一起。从老城区步行 10 分钟即可到达,感觉像是走进了另一座城市。手冲阿拉比卡咖啡售价 65,000–85,000 VND。这里用阿拉比卡豆制作的“ca phe sua da”是证明精品豆价值的最佳案例。

    上文提到的 Nguyen Huu Huan 街上的 Cafe Giang,清晨时分阳光会透过上层的窗户洒进来,非常值得一爬。

    室内深色木桌上的越南滴漏咖啡壶特写。

    摄影:Sóc Năng Động,来源:Pexels

    咖啡的节奏

    在 Hanoi 喝咖啡,重点不在于咖啡本身,而在于你坐在哪里。Dong Xuan 市场附近的清晨摊位在早上 8 点前就收摊了。Ba Dinh 区上午的节奏更缓慢、更老派、更地道。下午,大学区附近挤满了学生和笔记本电脑。到了傍晚,Hoan Kiem 湖附近的屋顶咖啡馆则灯火通明。

    这一切都不需要计划。走着走着,看到哪张凳子顺眼,坐下来,指着旁边人喝的咖啡点上一杯即可。

    实用贴士

    大多数街头咖啡价格在 20,000–40,000 VND 之间;第三波精品咖啡店价格在 55,000–90,000 VND 左右。传统店铺通常只收现金,较新的烘焙店则支持刷卡。如果你想在早餐前体验真正的 Hanoi 味道,跳过酒店餐厅,在两个街区内找一个放着滴漏壶的塑料凳坐下吧。