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芽庄咖啡文化:不止于 Ca Phe Sua Da | Vietnam Wayfarer
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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · central · nha-trang

芽庄咖啡文化:不止于 Ca Phe Sua Da

芽庄的咖啡文化远不止度假区的意式浓缩那么简单。从路边的塑料凳小店到考究的第三波精品咖啡馆,这里有一份慢享咖啡的指南。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20264 分钟阅读
A close-up of a hand holding a cup of hot tea on a table with artistic Asian prints.
↑ A close-up of a hand holding a cup of hot tea on a table with artistic Asian prints.Photo by Mike Moloney on Pexels
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#nha trang#food guide#city guide#food#coffee#ca phe#street food#drinks
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最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。

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    芽庄 (Nha Trang) 常被贴上“海滨城市”的标签,这导致其咖啡文化往往被忽视。这是一个误区。在度假区和当地社区之间,有着真正值得你花一个上午——甚至三天——去细细品味的咖啡氛围。

    基础款:路边 Ca Phe

    “Ca phe sua da”——即加了炼乳的冰咖啡——是 Cho Dam 市场周边和 Nguyen Thien Thuat 街沿线街边小店的标配。这些店通常在早上 6 点左右开门,每杯价格在 15,000–20,000 VND 之间,运营方式一如既往:用滴漏壶 (phin) 萃取浓郁的罗布斯塔咖啡,倒入冰块,再加入炼乳。你坐在塑料凳上,看着街道,没人会催你。

    这里的罗布斯塔咖啡风味比精品咖啡店中常见的阿拉比卡咖啡更锐利、更苦。这并非缺点,而是精髓所在。炼乳的存在是为了平衡这种苦味,在炎热的天气里待上几天,你就会明白为什么这种组合能脱颖而出。

    如果你想体验更地道的喝法,可以点“ca phe den da”——不加奶的冰黑咖啡——这样你能更清晰地品尝出店家所用咖啡豆的原味。

    蛋咖啡与北方的舶来品

    芽庄并非“蛋咖啡”的发源地——那是河内 (Hanoi) 的特产——但这里的一些咖啡馆也引进了这款饮品。它是在滴漏咖啡上覆盖一层由蛋黄、炼乳,有时还会加入奶酪或黄油搅拌而成的奶泡。端上来时它是温热的,顶层像蛋奶糊一样浓稠,底层则是苦涩的咖啡。

    Biet Thu 街沿线的一些店铺售价在 35,000–45,000 VND 左右。如果你还没在 河内 喝过,非常值得尝试一次;如果你喝过,也值得再来一杯。

    第三波咖啡店:谈论咖啡豆的地方

    精品咖啡的浪潮进入芽庄的时间比 西贡 (Saigon) 或 大叻 (Da Lat) 要晚,但它终究还是来了。过去五年里,一批烘焙咖啡馆相继开业,它们主要面向年轻的越南顾客,而非游客。

    芽庄与大叻的联系

    大叻位于内陆约 130 公里处,地势较高,供应了越南 (Vietnam) 大部分的阿拉比卡咖啡豆。芽庄的几家店直接从大叻的农场采购,菜单也反映了这一点:单一产地手冲咖啡、用高地咖啡豆制作的冷萃咖啡,以及口感与路边店罗布斯塔完全不同的滤泡式咖啡。价格跃升至每杯 55,000–85,000 VND,依然在合理范围内。

    这些咖啡馆大多集中在 Tran Phu 大道和背包客街区之间。寻找那些有黑板菜单和手动冲煮设备的店——这就是标志。

    风景如画的现代城市,夜晚灯火辉煌,摩天大楼在优美的天空下闪烁

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 Tiểu Bảo Trương

    椰子咖啡与区域变体

    还有一种鲜有人提及但值得一试的饮品:“ca phe cot dua”,即椰子咖啡。它出现在海滩附近的一些地方,尤其是 Hon Chong 海角周围。基底是冰黑咖啡,混合或分层加入椰浆——比 sua da 更浓郁,甜度较低,带有一种热带风情,却又不显俗气。一杯 30,000–40,000 VND 的饮品,在芽庄比在内陆喝起来更有感觉。

    一些店还供应“ca phe muoi”——盐咖啡——它起源于 顺化 (Hue),但已沿海岸线传播开来。在冰咖啡上漂浮着一层咸奶油。听起来很奇怪?其实不然。

    慢享时光:适合消磨时间的咖啡馆

    芽庄有一种咖啡馆,其存在的主要意义就是让你坐上两个小时,而不会有人来打扰你。这些店不同于面向游客的屋顶酒吧,也不同于路边的塑料凳小店。它们通常占据改造后的店屋或楼上空间,使用吊扇而非空调,播放着音量适中的越南音乐。

    芽庄大教堂后面的街道——尤其是 Thai Nguyen 和 Nguyen Trai 周围——这类咖啡馆比较集中。点你想喝的,第二天再来。店员会记住你的脸,但不会刻意招呼你。

    木桌上一杯插着越南国旗搅拌棒的冰咖啡。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 🇻🇳🇻🇳Nguyễn Tiến Thịnh 🇻🇳🇻🇳

    除了咖啡还能喝什么

    为了完整起见,这里有几种值得注意的非咖啡饮品:

    Tra da(免费冰茶)在大多数当地咖啡馆会自动提供。它是茉莉花茶或绿茶,冲泡较淡,从公共大壶中倒入塑料杯。喝吧,这不仅仅是配角,它还能起到清口的作用。

    Sinh to(水果冰沙)由新鲜菠萝蜜、牛油果或刺果番荔枝制成,严格来说不是咖啡馆饮品,但海滩路沿线的许多咖啡馆也兼营果汁吧。“sinh to bo”——牛油果冰沙——售价 30,000–40,000 VND,浓稠到需要用勺子吃。

    Nuoc mia(甘蔗汁)在市场附近的推车上新鲜压榨。虽然不是咖啡馆饮品,但在你决定喝咖啡前的晨间散步时,它是不错的搭配。

    实用小贴士

    大多数当地咖啡馆在上午营业——通常是早上 6 点到中午,下午早些时候会休息,3 点左右重新开门。第三波精品咖啡店的营业时间通常为早上 7:30 到晚上 9 点。去路边摊时请准备小额现金(10,000–50,000 VND 的纸币);精品咖啡馆可以使用银行卡支付,但并非普及。海滩路上的游客咖啡馆价格是当地同类饮品的两到三倍——如果你想要海景,这无可厚非,但要清楚你支付的是什么。