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Phu Quoc 咖啡文化:不止于 Ca Phe Sua Da | Vietnam Wayfarer
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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · south · phu-quoc

Phu Quoc 咖啡文化:不止于 Ca Phe Sua Da

Phu Quoc 的咖啡场景早已超越了海滩度假区的刻板印象——从街头的塑料凳小店到慢节奏的精品咖啡馆,这里有许多值得一试的好去处。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20264 分钟阅读
Cheerful family playing by the sea with city skyline in Da Nang, Vietnam.
↑ Cheerful family playing by the sea with city skyline in Da Nang, Vietnam.Photo by baolong thai on Pexels
Tags
#phu quoc#food guide#city guide#food#coffee#vietnamese coffee#ca phe sua da#duong dong
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最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。

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    Can Tho Fine Dining: Where to Splurge on Vietnamese Food

    大多数人来到 Phu Quoc 都是为了大海。咖啡往往成了顺带之物,是浮潜和看日落间隙的消遣。这其实是一个值得纠正的误区——这座岛屿已经发展出一种真正有趣的咖啡文化,只要你愿意放慢脚步,细细品味,便会有所收获。

    基础知识:这里的 "Ca Phe Sua Da" 是什么

    "Ca phe sua da"(炼乳冰咖啡)是整个越南的标配饮品,Phu Quoc 也不例外。但你在这里喝到的版本通常与 Hanoi 或 Saigon 的味道不同,这不仅仅是因为气候炎热。岛上许多小型本地店铺使用来自中部高原(Central Highlands)的罗布斯塔咖啡豆,通过“Phin”滴漏壶萃取,在加入炼乳之前,咖啡液呈现出近乎糖浆般的浓稠感。在路边摊,一杯的价格通常在 15,000 到 25,000 VND 之间。如果海滨度假村向你收取 60,000 VND,现在你知道为什么该往内陆走两条街了吧。

    Phu Quoc 的塑料凳咖啡文化集中在岛上的主要城区 Duong Dong 镇。Nguyen Trung Truc 街以及夜市周边的街道上,分布着许多家庭经营的“quan ca phe”(咖啡店),它们通常在清晨 6 点左右开门,大部分生意在 9 点前就完成了。这些店不是为了拍照打卡而设计的,它们是当地渔民和摩托车修理工上班前喝咖啡的地方。坐下来,指指旁边人喝的饮品,准没错。

    超越滴漏:还有什么值得一试

    “越南咖啡(Vietnamese coffee)”文化并非千篇一律,Phu Quoc 的咖啡馆菜单反映了一些值得了解的区域性和代际影响。

    椰子咖啡在这里非常受欢迎——不是那种兑了水的游客版,而是将冷萃或浓缩咖啡与椰奶及少量炼乳混合,再加冰制作的饮品。它口感醇厚而不甜腻。Bai Truong(长滩)附近的一些店铺几年来一直在改良这种做法,在炎热的午后非常值得一试。

    **盐咖啡(ca phe muoi)**起源于 Hue,但如今已传到南方,出现在 Phu Quoc 各地的菜单上。在冰黑咖啡上覆盖一层薄薄的咸奶油。你可以选择搅拌或不搅拌,当地人对此各执一词。无论如何,这种咸味以一种巧妙的方式中和了咖啡的苦涩,非常独特。

    “蛋咖啡(Egg coffee)”——即 Hanoi 那种将打发的蛋黄和糖覆盖在浓缩咖啡上的做法——在南方较少见,但 Duong Dong 的几家咖啡馆为了迎合游客也将其加入了菜单。味道不错,但与你在 Hanoi 原店喝到的还是有区别,诚实的店主会告诉你这一点。

    Phu Quoc GrandWorld 令人惊叹的竹结构入口,展现了独特的建筑设计。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 lhthoai

    慢节奏:第三波浪潮与精品咖啡馆

    Phu Quoc 毕竟不是 Ho Chi Minh City(胡志明市)——这里没有密集的精品咖啡区——但在过去三四年里,岛上出现了一小批更讲究的咖啡馆,主要服务于长期停留的游客和年轻的越南旅行者。

    其中几家集中在岛北部的 Ong Lang 和 Cua Can 地区,那里的开发程度较低,环境更安静,客群也倾向于停留数周而非数天。这些店通常提供手冲咖啡、冷萃咖啡,以及来自 Da Lat 或 Son La 的单一产地阿拉比卡咖啡豆。手冲咖啡的价格在 45,000 到 75,000 VND 之间。作为回报,你将获得精准的萃取比例、干净的设备,以及通常带有的花园或遮阳露台,让你无需匆忙,可以静静坐着。

    Duong Dong 本身也有两三家小规模的精品咖啡店——寻找那些在黑板上标注咖啡豆产地、柜台后摆放着磨豆机的店。这通常是判断店主是否用心对待咖啡的可靠指标。

    温馨咖啡馆内,粗犷桌面上的一杯冰咖啡和滴漏壶。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 🇻🇳🇻🇳Nguyễn Tiến Thịnh 🇻🇳🇻🇳

    去哪里慢享咖啡

    在 Phu Quoc,最好的咖啡体验往往发生在你停止追求效率、坐下来观察街头生活的时候。以下是一些实用建议:

    • Duong Dong 的 Tran Hung Dao 街清晨:此时街道依然凉爽,交通稀疏,在度假人群醒来之前,当地店铺已全面营业。
    • Ong Lang 的花园咖啡馆午后:岛屿北部非常安静,咖啡馆也反映了这种节奏。带上一本书,没人会催促你离开。
    • 下午 5 点后的夜市区域:虽然这里以美食闻名,但几家咖啡店会营业至深夜,是观察路人的好地方。

    有一点需要注意:Phu Quoc 的自来水不适合直接饮用,但每家咖啡馆都会使用过滤水或瓶装水来制作咖啡,这一点无需担心。

    实用贴士

    Duong Dong 的大多数本地咖啡店没有英文菜单,但通过指点和比划数量完全没问题,且价格区间较窄,盲点也不会出错。如果你租了摩托车——这是游览岛屿的最佳方式——Ong Lang 和 Cua Can 的咖啡馆距离 Duong Dong 主街大约 15 到 20 km,是一段轻松的半日骑行。请带上现金;许多小店不接受刷卡。