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  3. 越南素食街头美食:哪些是真的不含肉?
🇨🇳 Food & Drink · all

越南素食街头美食:哪些是真的不含肉?

在越南街头寻找素食是可行的,但陷阱确实存在。以下是真正不含肉的食物以及需要注意的事项。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20265 分钟阅读
Delicious Asian noodle soup with vibrant garnishes captured in a close-up shot.
↑ Delicious Asian noodle soup with vibrant garnishes captured in a close-up shot.Photo by RDNE Stock project on Pexels
Tags
#dietary#food#vegetarian#street food#chay#budget eating#vegan#snacks
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    在越南(Vietnam)吃素是可行的,但需要比大多数美食指南所建议的保持更高的警惕。汤底里可能藏着骨头,“蔬菜”菜肴可能会加入鱼露,而“chay”(意为佛教素食)这个词在街头巷尾并不总是你理解的那种意思。

    以下是真正安全的食物、容易踩雷的食物,以及如何找到纯素食的方法。

    你需要掌握的词汇:“Chay”

    “Chay”是越南语中指代源自佛教实践的素食。在农历初一和十五,很大一部分人口会吃“chay”——这意味着每个月的那两天,各大城市都会出现专门的素食街头摊位和市场。这确实是在越南享用素食街头美食的最佳时机,无需向每个摊主反复确认。在 Hanoi、Saigon、Hue 和 Da Lat,你会在这些日期的寺庙附近找到许多临时的素食市场。

    在非素食日,你需要更加小心。

    绝对不含肉的街头小吃

    Banh Chuoi

    “Banh chuoi”——香蕉蛋糕——是街头最安全的选择之一。蒸的版本(banh chuoi hap)由熟香蕉、米粉、椰奶和糖制成,没有其他成分。你可以在香蕉叶包裹的摊位或小推车上买到,价格约为每份 5,000–10,000 VND。烤的版本(banh chuoi nuong)同样不含肉,口感更扎实,带有淡淡的焦糖味。两者都是天然的纯素食品。

    Banh Khoai Mi

    “Banh khoai mi”是木薯蛋糕——将磨碎的木薯与椰奶和糖混合,然后蒸或烤制而成。它口感软糯,微甜,传统做法中完全是植物性的。烤制的版本有时会呈现斑斓叶的绿色,顶部微脆。在市场摊位和素食面包店可以找到它。价格与 banh chuoi 相似:根据大小,约为 5,000–15,000 VND。

    Com Chien Chay

    “Com chien”(炒饭)在越南随处可见,但标准版本几乎总是含有鸡蛋、猪肉或两者兼有。素食版本——com chien chay——则换成了蔬菜、豆腐和酱油。它令人满足,价格便宜(约 25,000–40,000 VND),在“chay com binh dan”摊位(供应定价盒饭的越南式食堂)广泛供应。关键是要找到明确标示“chay”的摊位;在普通街头摊位点炒饭并要求“不放肉”,通常还是会吃到在煎过虾酱的锅里炒出来的食物。

    Banh Trang Nuong Chay

    烤米纸——“banh trang nuong”——是 Da Lat 的一种流行街头小吃,现已传播到大多数城市。标准版本使用鸡蛋、虾米和葱。素食版本用更多的葱油、蘑菇粉和有时是豆腐碎代替虾。在 Da Lat 夜市,素食 banh trang nuong 摊位很容易找到,通常会有标注。在其他地方,请务必询问。

    Dau Hu Sot Ca Chua

    番茄汁豆腐——“dau hu sot ca chua”——是一种常见的素食菜肴,常作为 com binh dan 的配菜。正如其名:嫩豆腐或老豆腐与番茄、大蒜和少许糖一起炖煮。在正宗的素食做法中,没有肉,也没有鱼露。搭配米饭,就是一顿完整且饱腹的餐点,价格不到 35,000 VND。

    为庆祝农历新年,正在准备用香蕉叶包裹的传统越南 banh tet。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 Vietnam Tri Duong Photographer

    看起来像素食但通常不是的食物

    这是大多数指南会忽略的部分。

    Pho:汤底几乎总是用牛骨或鸡骨熬制。即使是非专业店里的“pho chay”,也可能使用含有动物提取物的汤块。如果你想吃安全的 Pho,请去专门的素食餐厅。

    Banh mi:经典的“banh mi”三明治可以只加蔬菜——do chua(腌胡萝卜和白萝卜)、黄瓜、香菜、辣椒——但肉酱(pate)和蛋黄酱通常是标配。请明确要求“banh mi khong thit, khong pate”(不要肉,不要肉酱)。即便如此,有些摊主在烘烤前还是会在面包上涂一层薄薄的猪油。

    Goi cuon:鲜春卷——“goi cuon”——看起来很安全(米纸、香草、蔬菜),但几乎所有标准版本都含有虾或猪肉。蘸酱通常使用鱼露。素食版本确实存在,但需要特别寻找。

    Com tam(碎米饭):Com tam 是以烤猪肉为核心的。在普通的 com tam 摊位上,没有简单的素食改良方案。

    Bun bo Hue(顺化牛肉粉):这种来自 Hue 的辛辣、重柠檬草味的汤粉完全是以肉类为基础的——虾酱是其核心调味成分,而不仅仅是点缀。

    探索这道充满活力的越南餐点,配有米粉、新鲜香草和美味的蘸酱。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 Quang Nguyen Vinh

    实用策略

    在寺庙附近用餐。活跃寺庙旁边的摊位几乎总是提供素食选择,有时甚至是纯素。Hanoi 的镇国寺(Tran Quoc Pagoda)和 Ninh Binh 的拜顶寺(Bai Dinh)附近都有餐饮区,那里有素食摊主。

    学习两个短语:“An chay duoc khong?”(我可以吃素吗?)和“Khong co thit, khong co ca, khong co nuoc mam”(没有肉,没有鱼,没有鱼露)。第二个短语虽然长,但涵盖了主要的陷阱。

    利用素食日。作为素食者,农历初一和十五是你享用街头美食的最佳日子。市场里会挤满专门的素食摊主,你可以自由享用美食,而无需不断询问。

    在 Da Lat,吃素比越南任何地方都容易——这座城市有大量的佛教徒、适合蔬菜种植的凉爽气候,以及几十年来一直在发展的素食咖啡馆文化。

    实用建议

    文中提到的价格为 2024 年街头摊位的平均价格,会根据城市和社区略有不同。如果想吃正餐而不是零食,请专门搜索“quan chay”(素食餐厅)——大多数越南城市至少有几家,而且食物性价比极高,一顿丰盛的餐点大约在 40,000–80,000 VND。在任何大城市,使用 Google 地图搜索“com chay”都能快速找到相关选项。