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越南咖啡鸡尾酒:Espresso Martini 的 Phin 滤壶新变身 | Vietnam Wayfarer
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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · all · hanoi

越南咖啡鸡尾酒:Espresso Martini 的 Phin 滤壶新变身

越南的鸡尾酒吧正在抛弃意式浓缩咖啡机,转而使用 Phin 滤壶——看看当 ca phe sua da(越南冰咖啡)遇上调酒壶会碰撞出什么样的火花。

Nam Nguyen 撰写May 30, 20265 分钟阅读
A close-up of two iced coffee drinks with whipped cream at Little Hanoi, perfect for a refreshing break.
↑ A close-up of two iced coffee drinks with whipped cream at Little Hanoi, perfect for a refreshing break.Photo by Pragyan Bezbaruah on Pexels
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#coffee#cocktails#vietnamese coffee#ca phe sua da#phin coffee#craft bars#drinks#saigon bars#hanoi bars#da lat#robusta#condensed milk#rum
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Espresso Martini 曾作为全球最受 Instagram 追捧的饮品风靡一时,但越南的调酒师们一直在悄悄进行更有趣的尝试:他们用 Phin 滤壶滴滤出冷萃“ca phe sua da”,将其融入鸡尾酒中,调制出一种仿佛清晨 7 点越南(Vietnam)街头气息的味道。

这绝非噱头。Phin 滤壶萃取出的咖啡浓缩液质地浓稠、近乎糖浆状,比意式浓缩咖啡的咖啡因含量更高、酸度更低,且在与烈酒混合时,其风味表现远胜于普通的意式浓缩。再加上当地的配料(炼乳、椰奶、“banh mi”摊位常用的罗布斯塔咖啡豆、棕榈糖),你便拥有了一套截然不同的调制基底。

为什么 Phin 滤壶改变了一切

意式浓缩咖啡机通过 9 个大气压将热水压过咖啡粉。而 Phin 滤壶则依靠重力和耐心:粗研磨的咖啡粉、滤盖,以及 4-6 分钟的滴滤过程。其结果是油脂(crema)更少,口感更醇厚,苦味停留在喉咙后部而非舌尖。

对于鸡尾酒调制而言,这种醇厚感至关重要。标准的 Espresso Martini(伏特加、意式浓缩、咖啡利口酒、糖浆)依赖意式浓缩的油脂来形成泡沫层,并利用其明亮的酸度来平衡酒精。如果换成 Phin 咖啡浓缩液,泡沫会消失——调酒师通常会用蛋清或鹰嘴豆水来弥补——但你会得到一种更圆润、更具巧克力风味的基底,它与陈年烈酒的搭配效果远好于清淡的伏特加。

罗布斯塔咖啡豆在越南“vietnamese coffee(越南咖啡)”文化中占据主导地位,其咖啡因含量比阿拉比卡豆高出 20-30%,并带有天然的泥土、橡胶和黑巧克力的风味。目前,Hanoi 和 Saigon 的大多数精品鸡尾酒吧都在采购来自 Dak Lak 或 Lam Dong 的单一产地罗布斯塔豆——有时甚至是在店内自行烘焙——而不是使用预包装的咖啡粉。

炼乳难题(以及酒吧的解决方案)

传统的“ca phe sua da(炼乳咖啡)”使用甜炼乳,是因为过去制冷设备不可靠且新鲜乳制品稀缺。这段历史造就了一种如今已与越南咖啡身份密不可分的风味。炼乳浓稠、极甜且带有轻微的焦糖味——它不像糖浆那样能轻易溶解在冰冷的调酒壶中。

酒吧通常有两种处理方式。懒人做法:将其作为浮层或涂抹在杯沿,这样既能获得风味又不影响口感。更好的做法:将炼乳稍微加热,与白朗姆酒或伏特加等中性烈酒搅拌至乳化,然后冷却混合物,将其作为“乳脂洗涤(dairy-fat-washed)”基底。这样调制出的成品口感丝滑,绝不甜腻。

朗姆酒正成为主流的搭配烈酒。来自马提尼克的陈年农业朗姆酒或越南甘蔗酒(如果能找到的话,可以试试 Sơn Tinh 手工朗姆酒)能呼应炼乳中的糖蜜味,而不会产生冲突。伏特加依然适用——它更纯净——但往往显得不够出彩。

越南河内还剑湖龟塔的风景,周围绿树成荫。

图片来源:Nguyen Ngoc Tien,来自 Pexels

去哪里品尝一杯

Hanoi

Polite Company(西湖区,每杯鸡尾酒约 195,000 VND)自 2020 年代初以来一直提供轮换的越南风味菜单。他们的 Phin Martini 使用本地烘焙的罗布斯塔豆、蛋清泡沫以及用炼乳洗涤过的伏特加。这款酒不加装饰,这非常明智——它不需要在杯顶放一颗咖啡豆来假装自己是 Kahlua 广告。

靠近还剑湖的 The Botanist 风格更偏植物系,但他们曾推出过一款值得一试的 Phin 咖啡豆蔻 Old Fashioned。如果你知道自己想要什么,调酒团队非常乐意接受菜单之外的定制要求。

为了了解这些饮品背后的咖啡文化,Hanoi(河内)的“egg coffee”场景——将罗布斯塔咖啡与打发的蛋黄和糖混合——也是一条平行的文化脉络,在去酒吧之前非常值得一探究竟。

Saigon

Saigon(西贡)的鸡尾酒文化发展更快,实验也更激进。The Workshop(第一郡 Ngo Duc Ke)和 Nê Cocktail Bar(第一郡 Le Lai,160,000–220,000 VND)是目前在越南本土食材运用上表现最出色的两家店。

Nê 的团队曾用 Phin 滴滤咖啡调制出一款 Sour,加入了椰子洗涤过的朗姆酒、新鲜青柠汁,并在顶部浮上一层薄薄的炼乳。听起来似乎元素过多,但实际上非常和谐。椰子中和了朗姆酒的甜味,青柠防止了口感平淡,而炼乳则在烈酒冲击味蕾前带来了一丝怀旧的甜蜜。

作为对比,Bui Vien 街头的“bia hoi”每杯仅需 10,000 VND,那里没人会往酒里加 Phin 浓缩液——但了解这一基准,有助于你更好地欣赏精品酒吧场景的进步程度。

Da Lat 和高地地区

Da Lat 位于越南主要的咖啡产区,这里有一个规模虽小但非常认真的酒吧圈,对食材产地有着近乎执着的追求。Nguyen Chi Thanh 街上的几家店会为你调制 Phin 鸡尾酒,所用的咖啡豆采摘自 50 km 以内。价格更亲民(130,000–170,000 VND),环境虽然不够精致,但因为咖啡极度新鲜,风味反而更加浓郁。即使不为了鸡尾酒,这里也值得一游。

吧台上的鸡尾酒特写,装饰充满活力,展示着色彩斑斓的异国情调饮品。

图片来源:jakub,来自 Pexels

如果拿不定主意,该点什么?

询问是否有 Phin Martini 或“ca phe”鸡尾酒,看看酒吧能提供什么。好的信号:他们自己在店内制作 Phin 浓缩液(你会看到滤壶)、使用当地烈酒或陈年朗姆酒,并且吧台上能看到炼乳。坏的信号:他们直接倒 Kahlua 并将其称为越南咖啡鸡尾酒。

如果朗姆酒加炼乳听起来太浓郁,可以询问是否有 Phin 咖啡 Sour——柑橘类水果能显著减轻厚重感,喝起来更像是一款日间鸡尾酒而非甜点。

实用贴士

Hanoi 和 Saigon 的鸡尾酒吧通常在下午 5 点左右营业,工作日营业至午夜,周末会更晚。第一郡和西湖区大多数信誉良好的酒吧都支持现金和刷卡。在精品酒吧,每杯鸡尾酒的预算在 150,000–230,000 VND 之间;如果“咖啡鸡尾酒”的价格低于 100,000 VND,那几乎可以肯定是用速溶咖啡调制的,建议降低预期。