Thap Duong Long: A Traveler's Guide to Vietnam's Tallest Cham Towers

What It Is

Thap Duong Long is a group of three Cham towers sitting on a low hill in Tay Son district, Binh Dinh province, roughly 50 km from Quy Nhon on the coast and about 170 km southeast of Pleiku in Gia Lai. The central tower stands around 24 meters tall — the highest surviving Cham tower in Vietnam (베트남 / 越南 / ベトナム). That fact alone would be enough to warrant a stop, but the real draw is the carved granite ornamentation that covers the towers in ways you won't see at better-known Cham sites like Po Nagar or My Son.

Built sometime between the late 12th and early 13th centuries during the Champa kingdom's later period, the three towers follow the standard Cham layout: a main central tower flanked by two smaller ones, all facing east. Unlike most Cham structures that rely entirely on fired brick, Duong Long incorporates granite blocks with detailed carvings of animals, mythological figures, and floral motifs pressed directly into the brickwork. The site was recognized as a national monument in 1980 and has had periodic restoration work since.

Why Travelers Go

Most people who end up at Duong Long are either Cham architecture enthusiasts doing the full Binh Dinh tower circuit (there are eight tower sites in the province) or travelers passing between Quy Nhon and the Central Highlands (중부 고원 / 中部高原 / 中部高原) who want something more interesting than another roadside coffee stop.

The towers are genuinely impressive in scale — you can see them from a distance across the surrounding rice paddies, which gives them a presence that photographs from ground level don't fully capture. The granite carvings are more intricate than what you'll find at My Son, and you'll likely have the place to yourself. On a weekday, it's not unusual to be the only visitor.

Best Time to Visit

Binh Dinh has a tropical climate with a rainy season running roughly from September through December. The wettest months are October and November, when the surrounding fields can get muddy and the access path to the towers becomes slippery.

March through August is the sweet spot. Skies are clear, the rice paddies are green, and the light in the late afternoon hits the brick towers in a way that makes the granite carvings stand out sharply. Early morning — before 8 AM — is best for photos if you want the east-facing towers lit straight on.

How to Get There

The nearest major city is Quy Nhon, about 50 km to the southeast.

From Quy Nhon

Rent a motorbike (150,000–200,000 VND/day from most guesthouses) and ride northwest on QL19 toward Tay Son district. The turnoff to the towers is near the town of Phu Phong — look for signage to "Thap Duong Long" pointing north off the main road. Total ride: about 1 hour 15 minutes.

Alternatively, hire a car with driver through your hotel (around 800,000–1,000,000 VND for a half-day trip that can include other Cham towers in the area like Thap Banh It and Thap Canh Tien).

From Pleiku (Gia Lai)

Drive southeast on QL19 toward Quy Nhon — Duong Long is roughly 170 km, or about 3.5 hours by car. It works well as a stopover if you're heading from the highlands to the coast.

There's no direct public bus to the tower site itself. You'd need to get to Phu Phong town (buses from Quy Nhon run regularly, around 30,000 VND) and then grab a "xe om" (motorbike taxi) for the last 3 km.

Photo by HONG SON on Pexels

What to Do

Walk the full perimeter of the towers

Don't just stand at the front and snap a photo. Circle around to the back and north side, where the granite carvings are best preserved. Look for the Garuda figures on the central tower and the elephant motifs on the southern tower's base. Bring a flashlight or use your phone light to see the interior carvings in the central tower's doorway — the chamber is dim but there are carved lintels worth examining.

Study the brickwork joints

Cham builders used a resin-based mortar that's still debated among archaeologists. At Duong Long, you can see sections where the joints are nearly invisible — the bricks fit together with a precision that looks almost dry-stacked. Compare the original sections to the restored portions (usually identifiable by slightly different-colored brick) and the craftsmanship gap is obvious.

Photograph from the rice paddies

Walk about 200 meters east of the tower complex into the surrounding fields for the best wide shot. The three towers framed against the paddies with the Tay Son foothills behind them is the image that actually captures the scale of the site.

Combine with other Binh Dinh towers

If you have a full day, pair Duong Long with Thap Banh It (30 km southeast, near Quy Nhon) and the Quang Trung Museum in Tay Son town, which covers the 18th-century Tay Son Rebellion — a major chapter in Vietnamese history. The museum is free and takes about 45 minutes.

Talk to the site caretaker

There's usually a caretaker on the grounds who can point out details you'd miss. A few thousand dong as a thank-you is appreciated but not expected.

Where to Eat Nearby

Phu Phong town, 3 km from the towers, has basic "com binh dan" (everyday rice) shops along the main road. A plate with rice, grilled pork, and vegetables runs about 30,000–40,000 VND.

Binh Dinh is known for "banh xeo" — but the local version here uses smaller, crispier crepes than the southern style, stuffed with shrimp and bean sprouts. Look for a stall near the Phu Phong market in the morning. Another regional dish worth trying is "bun cha ca" — rice noodle soup with fish cake — common in Quy Nhon if you're heading back that way.

Where to Stay

There's no accommodation at the tower site. Your options:

• Quy Nhon (50 km): The best base. Budget guesthouses from 200,000–350,000 VND/night. Mid-range hotels along the beach road (Xuan Dieu Street) from 500,000–900,000 VND. A few boutique options around 1,200,000–2,000,000 VND.
• Pleiku (170 km): If you're coming from the highlands. Hotels in the center from 300,000–700,000 VND.
• Phu Phong town: One or two basic nha nghi (guesthouses) if you're stuck, around 150,000–250,000 VND. Don't expect much beyond a bed and a fan.

Photo by ㅤ quang vinh ㅤ on Pexels

Practical Tips Locals Would Tell You

• Bring water and sun protection. There's no shade at the tower complex and no vendor stalls on site.
• Wear shoes with grip if visiting after rain — the hill path gets slick.
• Entry is free (as of early 2025). There's a small parking area at the base of the hill.
• The site closes at dusk. No night access.
• Phone signal (Viettel, Mobifone) is fine in the area.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Rushing through. People who give it 15 minutes leave disappointed. Budget at least 45 minutes to walk the site properly.
• Skipping it because My Son is more famous. The carving quality at Duong Long is arguably superior, and you won't share it with tour buses.
• No cash. There's no ATM at the site and the nearest one is in Phu Phong. Bring small bills for xe om drivers and food stalls.
• Driving from Quy Nhon in the midday heat. The road is fine but the towers bake in the afternoon sun. Leave early or go late.

Practical Notes

Duong Long works best as part of a Binh Dinh day trip from Quy Nhon or a stopover between the coast and the Central Highlands. It's not a destination you'd plan a whole trip around, but if you have any interest in Cham architecture, it's the most impressive tower complex in the province — and one of the least crowded heritage sites in central Vietnam.