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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · central · hue

顺化咖啡文化:不仅仅是 Ca Phe Sua Da

顺化有着独特的咖啡个性——节奏更慢、更具仪式感,根植于这座依然崇尚慢生活的城市。以下是推荐的饮用地点和点单指南。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20265 分钟阅读
Hands cracking eggs into a bowl, with flour ready for baking. Perfect for culinary scenes.
↑ Hands cracking eggs into a bowl, with flour ready for baking. Perfect for culinary scenes.Photo by Yunuen Zempoaltecatl on Pexels
Tags
#hue#food guide#city guide#food#coffee#drinks#street food
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    顺化的咖啡节奏从不匆忙。在这座人们仍保留两小时午休习惯、香江(Perfume River)仿佛无处可去的城市,咖啡文化恰如其分地反映了这一点——从容、讲究,且值得细细品味。

    基础篇:随处可见的经典

    经典的“ca phe sua da”——加炼乳的冰咖啡——在顺化随处可见,正如它在整个越南(Vietnam)一样。在顺化,街边摊的一杯咖啡价格约为 15,000–20,000 VND,通常装在矮玻璃杯中,端上来时杯口还架着金属滴漏壶。等待咖啡滴滤的过程本身就是一种仪式。

    让顺化(Hue)与众不同的不是咖啡本身,而是那种节奏。这里的街角咖啡馆遵循着一套不同的社交逻辑。Nguyen Chi Thanh 沿街或 An Cuu 市场附近的塑料凳咖啡摊不仅价格便宜,而且充满了社区感。退休的老人们在下象棋(co tuong),摩托车司机在换班间隙小憩,学生们一杯咖啡可以坐上一小时。你也可以完全融入其中。

    顺化特有的烘焙

    顺化人偏爱深烘焙的罗布斯塔咖啡豆,通常会混合少量阿拉比卡豆以增加香气。其口感苦涩、浓郁且强劲——比你在胡志明市或岘港喝到的更甚。顺化的一些老派烘焙师在烘焙过程中仍会加入黄油或鱼露,这是一种能柔化苦味并增添微妙咸鲜层次的传统工艺。听起来很奇怪,但效果确实不错。

    你可以去东巴市场附近寻找按袋售卖的本地烘焙咖啡豆。像 Trung Nguyen 这样的品牌随处可见,但更有趣的往往来自那些家庭经营的小作坊,他们的产品包装上通常只有一个手写的标签。

    越南市场中休闲的户外用餐环境,摆放着鲜艳的塑料凳,人们正在享受美食。

    图片来源:Theodore Nguyen,来自 Pexels

    经典之外:还有什么值得点?

    Ca phe trung(蛋咖啡)起源于河内——将蛋黄和炼乳搅打成泡沫,覆盖在浓缩咖啡上——但顺化有自己更安静的版本。这里的一些咖啡馆供应一种本地称为“ca phe bong”(云朵咖啡)的鲜奶油变体,其泡沫比河内的原版更轻盈、甜度更低。如果你在手写黑板上看到它,一定要点一杯。

    Sua chua ca phe——酸奶咖啡——在越南中部很常见,如果你还没试过,非常值得一尝。越南式酸奶(比希腊酸奶更浓稠,略带颗粒感)铺在滴滤咖啡和冰块之下。这是一款评价两极分化的饮品,但大多数尝试过的人都会成为常客。

    **莲花茶**在顺化的皇家历史中根基深厚——阮朝君主曾让宫廷在皇城周围的莲花池中熏制茶叶——如今城中仍有几家咖啡馆供应正宗的版本。虽然它不是咖啡,但绝对值得一提。顺化最好的莲花茶是将绿茶茶叶存放在莲花花苞中过夜制成的,香气是自然吸收而非人工添加。在传统的茶室,预计一杯的价格在 30,000–50,000 VND 左右。

    去哪儿坐坐?

    塑料凳平民区

    火车站附近的 Nguyen Binh Khiem 沿街咖啡馆是品尝地道 ca phe sua da 的好去处。如果你想在常客中占个位子,请在早上 8 点前到达。这里没有菜单,没有 Wi-Fi 密码——只需指指旁边人喝的饮品即可。

    中端:花园咖啡馆

    顺化有着浓厚的花园咖啡馆(quan vuon)传统,即将家庭院落改造成在鸡蛋花树下、点缀着陶瓷盆栽的休闲区。这些咖啡馆既体现了顺化的皇家美学,又不会显得过于商业化。34 Dang Tran Con 周边地区以及天姥寺(Thien Mu Pagoda)路以南的街道上,有几家非常值得一逛。咖啡价格约为 30,000–50,000 VND,菜单通常还提供甜汤(che)和轻食。

    第三波精品咖啡

    顺化的精品咖啡圈规模虽小,但货真价实。如今已有少数店铺从中部高原(Central Highlands)——特别是大叻(Da Lat)和昆嵩(Kon Tum)——进口单一产地阿拉比卡豆,并提供手冲或爱乐压制作。Cong Ca Phe 在顺化有一家分店(该连锁店的社会主义复古美学与这座城市非常契合),但更有趣的还是那些独立店铺:在 Pham Ngu Lao 的背包客区和 Nguyen Hue Street 附近的大学区,你可以找到一些拥有专业冲煮设备、员工能与你探讨咖啡豆知识的新店。

    这些地方的价格会高一些——单一产地手冲咖啡约为 55,000–85,000 VND——但如果你追求品质,它们与街头咖啡的差距是显而易见的。

    顺化优雅的越南建筑,在花园环境中展示了传统风格和充满活力的装饰。

    图片来源:Minh Lê,来自 Pexels

    什么时候去?

    早晨是重头戏。顺化的咖啡文化本质上是一种早晨的仪式。到了上午 10 点,最好的街边摊位就已经开始收摊了。如果你想体验完整的仪式感——滴滤壶、矮塑料凳、再配上街对面小摊买的一个“banh mi(越式法包)”——请在早上 8 点前到达。

    下午属于花园咖啡馆和更缓慢、更具沉思感的茶室文化。晚上则是去喝 bia hoi(鲜啤)社交,或者在香江南岸的河畔静静地喝上一杯。

    实用贴士

    顺化的咖啡馆除了面向游客的店铺外,很少有英文菜单,但点单很简单:“ca phe sua da”是冰奶咖,“ca phe den”是黑咖啡,“nong”是热的,“da”是冰的。请准备现金——大多数街边摊和花园咖啡馆不接受刷卡。除了精品咖啡店外,大多数饮品的预算在 20,000–50,000 VND 之间。