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Da Nang 的 Nem Lui:如何搭配出一顿丰盛的餐点 | Vietnam Wayfarer
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🇨🇳 Food & Drink · central · da-nang

Da Nang 的 Nem Lui:如何搭配出一顿丰盛的餐点

Da Nang 的 nem lui 比 Hue 的版本口感更粗犷、烟熏味更浓——这里介绍了当地人如何围绕这些香茅猪肉串构建一顿完整的餐点,从蘸酱到包卷的餐桌礼仪应有尽有。

Wayfarer 团队May 26, 20264 分钟阅读
Street food with multiple small dishes on a tray, served outdoors with vibrant sauces.
↑ Street food with multiple small dishes on a tray, served outdoors with vibrant sauces.Photo by Quang Nguyen Vinh on Pexels
Tags
#nem lui da nang#da nang#guide#food#central vietnam#street food#grilled pork#mam nem#wrapping dishes
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最后更新 · May 26, 2026 · 独立调研,无任何赞助。

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    Da Nang 制作 "nem lui" 的方式与 Hue 略有不同,而这种差异在餐桌上至关重要。猪肉绞得更粗,用香茅和少许虾酱调味,然后压在香茅秆上,在炭火上烤至边缘焦香。你得到的更像是一种粗犷的烤串,而不是精致的肉卷——只要搭配得当,就能将这份小吃变成一顿正餐。

    什么是 Nem Lui

    Nem lui 是一道越南中部的特色菜:将调好味的猪肉包裹在香茅秆上烤制,食用时将肉从秆上取下,放入米纸中包裹食用。Hue 的版本口感往往更细腻、味道更甜。而 Da Nang 的版本口感更粗犷、烟熏味更浓,蘸酱中虾酱的比例更高——即 "mam nem",这是一种用凤梨汁稀释并加入辣椒和大蒜调味的鳀鱼发酵酱。它味道独特且浓郁,是整顿餐点的灵魂。

    如果你这周一直在吃 "banh mi" 或 "com tam",想尝试一下更地道的越南中部饮食,nem lui 是一个很好的切入点。

    包卷餐桌:必备配菜

    在 Da Nang 任何一家像样的餐馆,一份完整的 nem lui 套餐通常包括:

    • Banh trang(米纸圆片,包括干的和已浸软的)
    • Bun(细米粉,通常是一小份凉的)
    • Rau song — 一盘生菜叶,通常包括紫苏、薄荷、切片的香蕉花和黄瓜条
    • Dua leo(黄瓜)和 khe(杨桃),均切成薄片以便包裹
    • Mam nem — 花生与发酵鳀鱼制成的蘸酱,温热上桌

    包裹方法:铺开一张浸软的米纸,放上一小撮 bun、几片香草、一片杨桃或黄瓜,然后将猪肉从香茅秆上拉下来放在上面,卷起来。将整个肉卷蘸上 mam nem 食用。杨桃的酸味可以化解猪肉的油腻;千万不要跳过这一步。

    有些地方还会提供一小碗 "goi cuon" 风格的配菜或炸红葱头,具体视店铺而定。

    白盘中盛放着令人垂涎的越南春卷和蘸酱,是健康饮食的绝佳选择。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 FOX ^.ᆽ.^= ∫

    搭配建议

    先来一份 Banh Xeo

    "Banh xeo" —— 这种塞满猪肉、虾仁和豆芽的滋滋作响的煎饼,是 nem lui 之前的绝佳开胃菜。Da Nang 的版本比南部的更小,口感更酥脆。吃法相同:撕成小块,用米纸包裹香草,蘸上 nuoc cham 食用。先点这份煎饼,意味着等到烤串上桌时,你已经进入了“包卷模式”。

    来一碗 Mi Quang

    如果你想吃得更扎实一点,半份 "mi quang" 是很好的搭配——这种加入猪肉、虾仁和少量汤汁的姜黄面条,不会掩盖 nem lui 的烟熏味。大多数专门做 nem lui 的店不提供 mi quang,所以这更像是一种“两站式”策略,而不是在同一张餐桌上点餐。

    饮品:Bia Hoi 或新鲜甘蔗汁

    "Bia hoi" —— 在街头塑料桌椅摊位按杯售卖的生啤 —— 是默认的搭配。它的酒体足够轻盈,不会抢了 mam nem 蘸酱的风头。如果你不喝酒,新鲜甘蔗汁(nuoc mia,每杯约 15,000–20,000 VND)也能起到同样的作用:清甜、冰凉,能在两口之间清新味蕾。

    在 Da Nang 去哪儿吃

    位于 Hoang Dieu 街、靠近 Han 河市场区域的 Quan Nem Lui Ba Duc 是口味最稳定的店之一。营业时间约为上午 10 点至晚上 9 点,nem lui 价格约为每串 20,000–25,000 VND,包含全套配菜。预计每人花费 80,000–120,000 VND 即可享用一顿丰盛的餐点。

    Hai Chau 区 Tran Cao Van 街沿线的小餐馆也有几家 nem lui 店,在中午和下午 5 点后会坐满食客。这些店大多是家庭经营,没有英文菜单,但只要指着门前烤架上的肉串,老板就能明白你的意思。

    尽量避开 My Khe 海滩附近面向游客的店——那里的 mam nem 蘸酱通常被稀释过,猪肉有时是预先煮熟后再加热的,而不是现点现烤。

    Ho Chi Minh City 繁忙街道上的烧烤摊贩和行人。

    图片来源:Pexels 上的 Tuan Vy

    预算参考

    一顿完整的 nem lui 正餐——包括肉串、全套配菜和饮品——在当地餐馆每人花费 80,000 至 150,000 VND。如果加一份 banh xeo,再增加 40,000–60,000 VND。这里的东西都不贵;成本增加通常是因为肉串点多了,这很容易发生。

    实用小贴士

    Da Nang 的 nem lui 店在午餐(上午 11:30–下午 1 点)和傍晚(下午 5–7 点)最拥挤——如果你想避开排队,请错开这些时间段。香茅秆是不能吃的;一只手握住香茅秆,另一只手用米纸包裹,猪肉就能顺滑地脱落。Mam nem 很容易弄脏衣服——每个人都可能遇到这种情况。