Une fois par mois : nouveaux plats, destinations hors des sentiers battus et itinéraires — directement dans votre boîte mail. Pas de spam, désabonnement à tout moment.
Rejoignez 1 247 lecteurs · Premier numéro : juin 2026
Thousands of foreigners teach English or freelance in Vietnam on tourist visas. Here is what Vietnamese law actually says, when it gets enforced, and how to do it properly.
Hoi An is slow, cheap, and surprisingly well-connected. Here is what a working month actually looks like — costs, internet, and where to sit with a laptop.
Hoi An works better as a slow-living base than most people expect — if you know where to sleep, where to plug in, and how far your budget actually stretches.
Da Lat has quietly become Vietnam's most livable remote-work base — cool air, cheap rent, and a cafe scene dense enough to keep you caffeinated for months.
Skip the crowded highways and ride this 4-day motorbike loop from Quy Nhon through the dramatic cliffs of Phu Yen and the quiet valleys of the Central Highlands.
From Da Lat's hillside wineries to Hanoi's old-quarter street food, this 8-day itinerary connects Vietnam's most distinctive food cultures in one focused trip.
If you've been putting off Vietnam (베트남 / 越南 / ベトナム) because you can't face a backpacker itinerary but don't want a coach tour either, this route is the one. It moves at a reasonable pace, uses domestic flights to skip the punishing overnight legs, and keeps accommodation at the level where you actually enjoy the room you're paying for.
The Logic Behind the Route
North to south is the cleanest direction: you land in Hanoi, work down the country's spine, and fly home from Saigon. Domestic flights on Vietnam Airlines or Vietjet cost between 400,000–900,000 VND per person if booked two to three weeks ahead — far less miserable than the 12-hour sleeper bus, and cheaper than you'd expect. Private airport transfers (book through your hotel or a service like Grab car) run 200,000–350,000 VND per leg in most cities, take ten minutes to arrange, and remove the taxi-meter anxiety entirely.
Mid-range here means 800,000–1,800,000 VND per night for a double: a proper breakfast, functioning air-con, and staff who speak workable English. Not a resort, not a capsule. The options exist in every city on this list.
Day 1–3 — Hanoi: Slow Entry, Don't Overdo It
Fly into Noi Bai Airport. Take a pre-arranged transfer (around 300,000 VND) to the Old Quarter or Tay Ho — Tay Ho is quieter and ten minutes from the main drag. Spend the first afternoon doing nothing useful. Jet lag is real.
Day 2 is for the streets. Walk the 36 guild streets of the Old Quarter in the morning before the heat builds. Stop for "pho" at Pho Thin on Lo Duc (around 60,000 VND, no-frills, excellent) or a bowl of "bun thang" if you want something lighter. Coffee mid-morning at one of the Hoan Kiem-side cafes — try "egg coffee" at Cafe Giang on Nguyen Huu Huan if you haven't had it before. Afternoon: Tran Quoc Pagoda and a loop around West Lake on foot or by grab bike. Evening: Bia Hoi Junction for a cold draft beer at roughly 10,000 VND a glass — it's worth seeing even if you only stay 45 minutes.
Day 3: Temple of Literature in the morning (45,000 VND entry), then the Vietnam Museum of Ethnology if you're curious about the country's regional cultures — it's genuinely well done. Afternoon train-street walk if you want the photo, but don't bother with the cafes there, they're purely for tourists. Dinner near Hoan Kiem: "bun cha (분짜 / 烤肉米粉 / ブンチャー)" at Bun Cha Huong Lien on Le Van Huu (the place Barack Obama and Anthony Bourdain made famous in 2016 — set meal around 70,000 VND). Book a water puppetry show at the Thang Long Theatre for 100,000 VND if that appeals; it's a 45-minute show, not a commitment.
Day 4–5 — Ha Long Bay or Ninh Binh: Pick One
This is a fork. Ha Long Bay works well on a one-night cruise — book a mid-range boat (around 3,500,000–5,000,000 VND per person for a cabin on a two-day/one-night cruise). The boat handles transfers. You don't need to rent a car. Alternatively, Ninh Binh is a 90-minute private transfer from Hanoi (around 600,000 VND one-way) and suits people who prefer land scenery and cycling over boats. Tam Coc is the most accessible part — boat trips through the rice-paddy karsts run about 150,000 VND per person. Stay one night in Ninh Binh town or near the Trang An complex, then fly south.
Photo by Arnie Chou on Pexels
Day 6–7 — Hue: Slower Than You Expect, Better For It
Fly Hanoi–Hue (roughly 500,000–800,000 VND). Phu Bai Airport is 15 km from the city center; transfers are easy. Hue rewards people who aren't rushing. The Imperial Citadel is a half-day, the Tomb of Khai Dinh another half. Don't try to do every royal tomb in one day — two is enough and you'll actually remember them. "Bun bo Hue" for breakfast is the correct move here — spicier and more complex than pho, and unavoidable in its home city (around 40,000–60,000 VND). Evening: walk Nguyen Dinh Chieu street along the Perfume River for cheap plastic-stool restaurants and cold Huda beer.
Day 8–9 — Hoi An: The Comfortable Middle
The train from Hue to Da Nang is one of the genuinely great rail journeys in Southeast Asia — about 2.5 hours, costs 100,000–200,000 VND, hugs cliffs above Lang Co beach. Take it. Then a private transfer from Da Nang station to Hoi An (around 250,000 VND, 30 km). Hoi An's Ancient Town is best before 9am and after 6pm. Midday is hot and crowded. "Cao lau" is the dish to find here — thick noodles, pork, crispy croutons, and an obscure local water source that supposedly makes it unreplicable elsewhere. "Mi quang" is the other one worth sitting down for. Rent bicycles (30,000–50,000 VND/day) and cycle to An Bang beach — 4 km, flat road, straightforward. If you want a tailor, budget two to three days for fittings; if not, don't get drawn in on day one.
Photo by HONG SON on Pexels
Day 10–12 — Saigon: End on Energy
Fly Da Nang–Saigon (under 600,000 VND most days). Saigon is louder, hotter, and faster than anywhere else on this route — which is the point of saving it for last when you've found your feet. Base yourself in District 1 or District 3. Day 10: Ben Thanh Market for orientation (buy nothing immediately, come back if you find something you want), then "com tam" for lunch — broken rice with grilled pork, a fried egg, and pickled vegetables for around 50,000 VND. Cu Chi Tunnels is a half-day trip (about 70 km, best done with a private driver, 800,000–1,200,000 VND for the car, 150,000 VND entry). Day 11: Cholon, Saigon's Chinatown district in District 5, for a wander and lunch at one of the open-air "hu tieu" stalls. "Ca phe sua da" — iced milk coffee — at a pavement table anywhere. That evening, splurge on one good dinner: Nha Hang Ngon on Nam Ky Khoi Nghia is a solid courtyard restaurant with regional dishes from across Vietnam, mains from 120,000–250,000 VND. Day 12 is buffer and airport.
Practical Notes
Book domestic flights the moment your international tickets are confirmed — prices spike close to travel dates. WhatsApp or Zalo works for most hotel and transfer communication once you're in-country. Pack lighter than you think: laundry services cost 20,000–40,000 VND per kg at any hotel and turn around overnight.
