Bai Da Co Nam Dan: A Traveler's Guide to Tuyen Quang's Ancient Stone Field

What it is

Bai Da Co Nam Dan is a field of ancient carved stones scattered across a hillside in Nam Dan commune, about 150 km north of Tuyen Quang city. The site contains roughly 30 large boulders etched with geometric patterns, human figures, circular motifs, and abstract symbols that archaeologists date to around 2,000 years old — possibly older. The carvings are attributed to ancestors of the Tay and Dao ethnic groups who have lived in these valleys for centuries.

The site was formally recognized as a national heritage monument in 2009, but it remains almost unknown to international travelers. Most visitors are Vietnamese researchers or adventurous domestic tourists. If you've explored the more famous stone carvings at Sapa or the rock art near Ha Giang, Nam Dan offers a quieter, less commercialized alternative.

Why travelers go

Three reasons, honestly. First, the petroglyphs themselves — some boulders are covered in dozens of carved figures, and standing next to a 2,000-year-old engraving in near-total silence hits differently than reading about it in a museum. Second, the landscape. Nam Dan sits in a narrow valley surrounded by limestone karst and dense forest, with terraced rice paddies dropping down the slopes. Third, the remoteness. You won't share this place with tour buses. On a weekday you might be the only visitor.

It's not a full-day destination on its own — most people combine it with a broader loop through northern Tuyen Quang or as a stop between Ha Giang (하장 / 河江 / ハーザン) and Tuyen Quang city.

Best time to visit

September through November gives you the best combination of dry weather and green rice terraces. The carvings are easier to photograph when the stone is dry — during the rainy season (June–August), moss and water runoff can obscure some of the shallower engravings.

December through February is cooler and often foggy in the mornings, which adds atmosphere but limits visibility on the mountain roads. March through May works fine if you don't mind occasional drizzle.

Avoid major holidays like Tet if you want solitude — though even during peak times, visitor numbers stay low.

How to get there

From Tuyen Quang city, drive north on QL2 toward the old Ha Giang border, then branch onto DT178 toward Nam Dan commune. Total distance is about 150 km, mostly on decent two-lane roads, but the final 20 km narrows to a mountain track with some unpaved sections. Budget 3.5–4 hours by motorbike, or about 3 hours by car (if your driver knows the route).

From Ha Giang city (now administratively merged into the expanded Tuyen Quang province), the site is roughly 90 km south — around 2.5 hours on winding mountain roads.

Transport options

• [Motorbike rental](/posts/renting-motorbike-vietnam (베트남 / 越南 / ベトナム)-legal-insurance) from Tuyen Quang city runs 150,000–200,000 VND/day for a Honda Wave or similar. This is the most flexible option.
• Private car with driver costs around 1,200,000–1,500,000 VND for the round trip from Tuyen Quang city.
• Local bus service exists to the district center, but you'll still need a xe om (motorbike taxi) for the final stretch to the stone field.

There's no signage in English. Save the GPS coordinates (roughly 22.67°N, 105.05°E) or ask locals for "Bai Da Co" — most people in the commune know it.

Photo by Quang Nguyen Vinh on Pexels

What to do

The main activity is walking through the stone field itself. A rough path loops through the boulders, taking 45 minutes to an hour if you stop to examine the carvings closely. Bring a flashlight or use your phone light at an angle — many engravings only become visible with side-lighting, especially in overcast conditions.

Look for the largest boulder near the center of the field. It has the densest concentration of carvings: concentric circles, stick figures with raised arms, and what appear to be agricultural or ceremonial scenes. Nobody knows exactly what they mean, and the interpretive signage (in Vietnamese only) is speculative.

Beyond the stones, the surrounding area rewards exploration:

• Walk through Nam Dan village to see traditional Tay stilt houses
• Hike up the ridge behind the stone field for views over the valley (30–40 minutes)
• Visit the weekly market if your timing aligns — typically every 5 days on the lunar calendar

Where to eat

Nam Dan commune has no restaurants in the tourist sense. Your options:

• Homestays in the village serve family-style meals — expect rice, stir-fried greens, pork or chicken, and local "men men" (a corn-and-rice porridge common among highland ethnic groups). Meals run 80,000–120,000 VND per person.
• Pack your own lunch from Tuyen Quang city. The Cho Tam Cuc market in town has excellent "banh cuon" in the morning and grilled pork for road snacks.
• On the drive back, stop in the district town for a bowl of "pho (쌀국수 / 越南河粉 / フォー)" or "bun rieu" — nothing fancy, but filling after a day in the hills.

Where to stay

No hotels exist near the stone field. Two options:

• Homestay in Nam Dan: A few families accept guests. Expect a mattress on the floor, mosquito net, shared bathroom, and dinner/breakfast included for around 250,000–350,000 VND per person. Ask at the commune office or call ahead if you have a Vietnamese speaker with you.
• Tuyen Quang city: More comfortable. Budget hotels along Tran Hung Dao street start at 300,000 VND/night. Khach San Hoang Ha and a few newer places near the river offer clean rooms with hot water and Wi-Fi for 400,000–600,000 VND.

If you're coming from the Ha Giang direction, you could also base yourself in the district center of Hoang Su Phi (roughly 60 km north), which has more developed homestay infrastructure thanks to its terraced rice fields attracting photographers.

Photo by Haneul Trac on Pexels

Practical tips

• Bring cash. There are no ATMs near the site and mobile signal is weak in the valley.
• Wear shoes with grip — the path between boulders gets slippery when wet.
• A basic Vietnamese phrasebook or translation app helps enormously. English is essentially non-existent here.
• If you're riding a motorbike, check your brakes before the descent on DT178. The road drops steeply in places with loose gravel.
• Carry water. There's nowhere to buy drinks at the stone field itself.

Common mistakes

• Underestimating travel time. Google Maps may show 2.5 hours from Tuyen Quang city, but road conditions on the final stretch can double that estimate.
• Arriving too late. The carvings face east and are best lit in the morning. By mid-afternoon, the hillside falls into shadow.
• Expecting infrastructure. This isn't Ninh Binh or Ha Long Bay (하롱베이 / 下龙湾 / ハロン湾). No ticket office, no cafe, no gift shop. That's the appeal — but plan accordingly.
• Skipping the village. The stones take under an hour. The surrounding Tay village and landscape are equally worth your time.

Practical notes

Bai Da Co Nam Dan works best as part of a 2–3 day loop through northern Tuyen Quang, combining the stone field with Hoang Su Phi's rice terraces and the forests around Lam Binh district. It's not a destination you fly across the country for — but if you're already exploring the northern mountains beyond the usual Ha Giang loop, it's a genuinely rewarding detour into deep-time Vietnam.