Banh da lon: Vietnam's Colorful Layered Steamed Cake
Banh da lon—literally "pig skin cake," though it contains no pork—is a Southern Vietnamese dessert of thin, colorful steamed layers filled with mung bean, taro, or durian. Find it at local markets and dessert stalls across Ho Chi Minh City.
What Is "Banh Da Lon"?
"Banh da lon" translates to "pig skin cake," a name that confuses first-timers since there's no pork involved. It's a beloved Southern Vietnamese steamed layer cake: soft, chewy, and slightly bouncy, with alternating thin layers (roughly 1 cm thick) of colored tapioca starch and rice flour, filled with mashed mung bean, taro, or durian. Coconut milk and sugar bind it all together.
In Northern Vietnam, you'll hear a similar cake called "banh chin tang may"—"nine-layer cloud cake"—emphasizing the visual drama of stacking so many distinct layers.
The Colors and Flavors
Traditional "banh da lon" gets its vibrant colors from natural plant extracts, though modern vendors sometimes use artificial food coloring for speed. The classic combinations are:
Pandan and Mung Bean: Pandan leaves give the tapioca a soft green hue, paired with a mild, nutty mung bean paste.
Pandan and Durian: Same green color, but the filling is rich, creamy durian—intensely aromatic and sweet, with that polarizing funk durian lovers crave.
La Cam and Taro: "La cam" (Dicliptera tinctoria) leaves produce a striking purple color when boiled. Taro filling is denser and earthier than mung bean, with a subtle sweetness.
The texture is key: soft and chewy from the tapioca, balanced by the richness of coconut milk and the specific filling. Slice it into small diamonds or rectangles—each piece shows off those distinct layers.
Image by Diego Delso via Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA)
Where to Find It in Ho Chi Minh City
"Banh da lon" is a regular at family gatherings and celebrations, but also a quick street snack. In Ho Chi Minh City, hit the dessert sections of large markets or hunt for small, independent vendors in busy neighborhoods. Districts 1, 3, and 5 (Cho Lon) are solid starting points—look for stalls specializing in "che" (Vietnamese sweets) or displays of various steamed cakes.
Freshness matters: high-turnover vendors mean better texture and flavor. Ask locals or follow the crowds early morning when vendors are restocking.
Image by Diego Delso via Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA)
Regional Cousins Across Southeast Asia
"Banh da lon" isn't unique to Vietnam. Similar steamed layer cakes appear across Southeast Asia:
- Kuih Lapis (Malaysia and Indonesia): Steamed layer cake with coconut milk, tapioca flour, and colorful hues.
- Khanom Chan (Thailand): Thailand's version, featuring distinct layers and a chewy texture.
- Num Chak Chan (Cambodia): The Khmer take on the layered steamed cake.
- Kutsinta (Philippines): Filipinos have their own rice cake variant.
Each country and region adapts the basic formula to local ingredients and tastes, but the principle remains: patient, meticulous steaming to build those iconic layers.
Making It at Home
If you want to try making "banh da lon" yourself, the process is straightforward but requires patience. Mix tapioca starch, rice flour, sugar, and coconut milk into a batter. Divide it and color the portions with pandan juice, "la cam" extract, or food coloring. Prepare your fillings (mung bean, taro, or durian paste) separately.
The building is where it gets meditative: steam a thin layer of batter, add a thin layer of filling, steam again, repeat until you've got height. Each layer must set before the next goes in. The result is a beautiful, distinct-layered cake you can customize for sweetness and flavor intensity—a rewarding way to explore Vietnamese culinary tradition in your own kitchen.
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