Thap Banh It: A Traveler's Guide to Binh Dinh's Cham Tower Complex

What Thap Banh It actually is

Four brick towers on a windswept hill about 20 km north of Quy Nhon, overlooking rice paddies and the Kon River valley. Thap Banh It — sometimes written Banh It Tower or Silver Tower — is one of the best-preserved Cham temple complexes left in Vietnam (베트남 / 越南 / ベトナム), dating to the late 11th to early 12th century during the Champa kingdom's peak.

The complex sits at roughly 100 meters elevation on a hill shaped, locals say, like a "banh it" (a pyramid-shaped sticky rice cake wrapped in banana leaf). The main tower — the "kalan" — stands about 20 meters tall and is dedicated to Shiva. Three smaller towers surround it, each serving a different ceremonial function. The brickwork is the real draw: interlocking fired bricks fitted without visible mortar, carved with intricate reliefs of dancers, mythological figures, and floral patterns that have survived almost a millennium of coastal weather.

Unlike My Son, which gets steady tourist traffic from Hoi An, Thap Banh It sees maybe a handful of visitors on any given day. That's part of its appeal.

Why travelers go

Most people who end up here are either Cham architecture nerds, photographers chasing that golden-hour light on red brick, or travelers passing through Quy Nhon who want something beyond the beach. The hilltop setting gives you a 360-degree view of the surrounding countryside — green paddies, coconut palms, a few water buffalo doing their thing. It's a 15-minute visit if you're just ticking a box, or an hour-plus if you actually look at the carvings and wander the grounds.

The complex also functions as a quiet counterpoint to the bigger Cham sites. No tour buses, no ticket queues, no souvenir gauntlet. Just old towers and sky.

Best time to visit

The dry season from January through August is your best window. March to June is ideal — warm but not yet peak-heat, and the surrounding rice paddies are vivid green. The towers face east, so morning light (before 9 AM) is best for photography.

Avoid September through December if you can. The central coast rainy season hits hard, the hilltop gets slippery, and overcast skies flatten the towers into dull silhouettes. That said, if you're already in Quy Nhon during the wet months, a dry morning window is enough.

How to get there

From Quy Nhon, Thap Banh It is about 20 km north along the QL1A highway, then a short turn inland. Figure 30-40 minutes by motorbike or taxi.

Motorbike: Cheapest and most flexible. Rentals in Quy Nhon run 120,000-150,000 VND/day for a semi-auto. Head north on QL1A toward Phu Cat, and the turnoff is signposted (look for the brown tourism sign near Phuoc Hiep commune). The final 2 km road up to the hill is paved but narrow.

Grab/taxi: A one-way Grab car from central Quy Nhon costs roughly 150,000-200,000 VND. The catch: getting a return ride from the towers can be tricky since drivers are scarce out there. Book a round trip and ask the driver to wait — offer an extra 50,000 VND for their time.

Organized tour: A few Quy Nhon hotels bundle Thap Banh It with other Cham sites (Thap Doi in town, Thap Canh Tien further north) for around 400,000-600,000 VND per person including transport and a guide.

If you're coming from Da Nang or Hoi An (호이안 / 会安 / ホイアン), Quy Nhon is about 300 km south — roughly 5-6 hours by bus or train.

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What to do

Walk the full complex, not just the main tower

Most visitors climb straight to the kalan, snap photos, and leave. But the three subsidiary towers each have distinct carvings and architectural details worth examining. The gate tower (gopura) at the base of the hill has some of the finest remaining relief work — dancers mid-motion, mythical animals, geometric borders. Bring binoculars or a zoom lens for details high on the walls.

Study the brickwork up close

The Cham building technique is genuinely impressive. Run your hand along the joints — you won't find mortar. Scholars still debate exactly how they achieved this (plant-based resin? friction fitting?). The precision is visible everywhere, and it's more striking in person than in photos.

Catch the view from the hilltop

The hilltop behind the main tower gives you an unobstructed panorama of the Kon River valley. On a clear morning, you can see all the way to the coast. It's a good spot to sit for a few minutes and take in the scale of the landscape the Cham chose for their sacred sites.

Visit Thap Doi on the same trip

Thap Doi is a pair of Cham towers right inside Quy Nhon city, on Tran Hung Dao street. They're smaller and more weathered than Banh It, but combining the two sites gives you a fuller picture of Cham architecture in the region. Thap Doi is free to visit.

Check the small exhibition area

Near the entrance, there's a modest display with information panels on Champa history and the site's restoration. It's basic but useful context if you're not already familiar with Cham civilization.

Where to eat nearby

There's nothing at the towers themselves — no cafe, no food stall. Eat before or after in Quy Nhon.

Back in town, seek out "banh xeo" — the central coast version here is smaller and crispier than the Saigon style, stuffed with shrimp and bean sprouts. Stalls along Tran Hung Dao and Nguyen Hue streets serve them for 5,000-10,000 VND per piece. Quy Nhon is also known for "[bun cha](/posts/bun-cha-hanoi (하노이 / 河内 / ハノイ)-grilled-pork-noodles) ca" (fish cake noodle soup) — a regional specialty worth trying at Bun Cha Ca Ba Cu on Phan Boi Chau street, around 35,000 VND a bowl.

Where to stay

Quy Nhon is your base. Budget guesthouses along the beach road (An Duong Vuong, Xuan Dieu) start at 200,000-350,000 VND/night. Mid-range hotels with sea views run 500,000-900,000 VND. There are a couple of upscale resorts south of the city center (Avani, FLC) starting around 1,500,000 VND if that's your speed.

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Practical tips locals would tell you

• Bring water and sun protection. There's zero shade on the hilltop. Even in the "cool" months, midday sun is punishing.
• Entrance fee is 10,000 VND — basically nothing. Have small bills ready.
• Wear proper shoes. The path up is uneven stone. Flip-flops work but sandals with grip are smarter, especially if it's rained recently.
• Go early. By 10 AM the light gets harsh and the heat builds. Sunrise visits are possible and worth the early alarm.

Common mistakes to avoid

• Skipping it because it's "just towers." If you're in Quy Nhon anyway, Thap Banh It is one of the more rewarding half-day trips in the central coast region. The setting and state of preservation justify the detour.
• Not arranging return transport. Seriously — don't assume you'll find a Grab at the site. Arrange a round trip.
• Rushing through. Fifteen minutes doesn't do the complex justice. Budget at least 45 minutes to walk the grounds, read the carvings, and sit with the view.
• Visiting at midday. Harsh overhead light kills the texture of the brickwork in photos, and the hilltop becomes an oven.

Practical notes

Thap Banh It is open daily, roughly 7 AM to 5 PM. There are basic toilet facilities near the entrance. The site sees occasional restoration work — scaffolding on one tower doesn't mean the whole complex is closed. Combine it with a day exploring Quy Nhon's other Cham sites and seafood scene for a full, unhurried day on the central coast.