Hon Son Island: A Traveler's Guide to An Giang's Quiet Escape

What Hon Son is

Hon Son is a 12 km² island sitting about 65 km off the coast in the Gulf of Thailand. It belongs to An Giang province and remains one of those places where daily life still revolves around fishing nets and fruit orchards rather than tourism revenue. The island has roughly 4,000 residents spread across a few hamlets — Bai Nha, Bai Bang, and Thien Thu Son being the ones you'll actually visit.

The island was historically part of Kien Giang province and you'll still find older maps labeling it that way. Locals call it Hon Son or sometimes Lai Son. Either works.

Unlike Phu Quoc, which has transformed into a resort-and-casino destination, Hon Son hasn't had that kind of investment. The roads are narrow, the beaches aren't manicured, and accommodation tops out at clean guesthouses rather than four-star hotels. That's the entire appeal.

Why travelers go

Hon Son draws people who want a genuine island without the development sprawl. The main reasons:

• Quiet beaches — Bai Nha and Bai Bang have calm, shallow water. Not white-sand postcard material, but pleasant enough for a morning swim without sharing space with jet skis.
• Hiking Ma Thien Lanh — The island's highest point at around 450 m. The trail through cashew and mango orchards takes 2-3 hours round trip and gives views across the gulf.
• Fishing village life — Watching boats come in at dawn, eating seafood that was swimming two hours ago, chatting with families who've been on the island for generations.
• No crowds — Even on weekends, visitor numbers stay low. Weekdays you might be the only non-local on the beach.

This isn't a place for nightlife or water sports infrastructure. If you need those, head to Phu Quoc (푸꾸옥 / 富国岛 / フーコック) instead.

Best time to visit

Dry season runs December through April. Seas are calm, skies clear, and the ferry operates reliably. March and April get hot — 34-36°C — but there's usually a coastal breeze.

Avoid September through November if possible. Rough seas can cancel ferries without notice, and rain comes in heavy afternoon bursts. The island doesn't have much indoor entertainment to fall back on.

Tet (late January or early February) brings domestic visitors from the delta provinces. The island gets livelier but accommodation fills up, so book ahead if you're traveling then.

How to get there

The jumping-off point is Rach Gia city on the mainland. From Saigon, you have two options:

• Bus from Saigon (사이공 / 西贡 / サイゴン) — Phuong Trang (Futa) runs coaches to Rach Gia, about 6-7 hours, around 180,000-220,000 VND.
• Flight — There's an airport in Rach Gia (VKG) with limited domestic connections. Check availability; schedules change seasonally.

From Rach Gia, take the ferry from Rach Gia port to Hon Son. The ride is about 2-2.5 hours on the standard vessel. Tickets run 100,000-150,000 VND one way. Departures are typically early morning (around 8:00 AM), with return ferries leaving Hon Son in the early afternoon. Confirm times locally — schedules shift and cancellations happen in rough weather.

Once on the island, rent a motorbike from your guesthouse (100,000-150,000 VND/day) or walk. The island is small enough that you can circle it in under an hour by bike.

Photo by Nam Ng on Pexels

What to do

Hike Ma Thien Lanh peak

The main trail starts near the pagoda at the base and climbs through fruit orchards. Bring water and start early — shade disappears on the upper sections. The summit has a small shrine and panoramic gulf views.

Visit Thien Thu Son temple

A hilltop Buddhist temple with old-growth trees and a quiet atmosphere. Worth the short climb for the setting rather than any particular architectural spectacle.

Beach time at Bai Nha

The main beach near the ferry dock. Shallow, warm water. A few drink stalls sell coconuts and local beer. Don't expect lounge chairs — bring a towel and find a spot under the trees.

Watch the fishing boats

The harbor comes alive before dawn. If you're an early riser, walk down around 5:00 AM to see the catch unloaded. Squid, crab, and various reef fish — some of which will end up on your lunch plate.

Where to eat

Hon Son's food scene is simple: seafood, seafood, and more seafood. A few family-run restaurants near Bai Nha serve whatever came off the boats that morning.

Expect grilled squid, steamed crab, fish hotpot, and "goi cuon" with shrimp. Meals run 80,000-150,000 VND per person depending on what you order. The grilled sea urchin (when in season, roughly March-June) is worth trying — served with lime, salt, and chili.

For breakfast, look for "hu tieu" — the southern-style noodle soup that's lighter than pho and common across the delta region. A bowl costs 25,000-35,000 VND.

Don't expect craft cocktail bars. Evening drinks mean [bia hoi](/posts/bia-hoi-hanoi (하노이 / 河内 / ハノイ)-street-beer) or canned Saigon beer at a plastic-chair setup near the water.

Where to stay

Accommodation is basic. Guesthouses and homestays dominate, mostly clustered near Bai Nha beach. Expect:

• Budget homestays — 200,000-350,000 VND/night. Fan rooms, shared or private bathroom, friendly owners who'll arrange meals.
• Mid-range guesthouses — 400,000-600,000 VND/night. Air conditioning, private bathroom, possibly hot water.

No resorts, no pools. Book ahead on weekends and holidays — there aren't many rooms total on the island. Calling directly (in Vietnamese) often works better than apps, though some places appear on Booking.com.

Photo by Vietnam Tri Duong Photographer on Pexels

Practical tips

• Cash only — There's no ATM on the island. Bring enough dong from Rach Gia. Budget 500,000-800,000 VND per day for food, transport, and accommodation.
• Phone signal — Viettel and Mobifone have coverage, but it's patchy inland. Don't rely on mobile data for navigation.
• Electricity — Stable now (undersea cable), but power cuts still happen occasionally.
• Language — Almost no English spoken. Basic Vietnamese phrases or a translation app will help enormously.
• Sunscreen and water — Limited shops on the island. Bring supplies from the mainland.

Common mistakes

• Not checking ferry schedules — Assuming there's a late afternoon boat back. There usually isn't. Miss the return ferry and you're staying another night.
• Coming for one day — The ferry timing makes day trips stressful. Two nights minimum lets you actually relax.
• Expecting Phu Quoc-level infrastructure — This is a fishing island with some tourism, not the other way around. Adjust expectations accordingly.
• Skipping the hike — People come for the beach and skip Ma Thien Lanh. The summit view is the best thing on the island.

Final note

Hon Son works best as a detour for travelers already exploring the Mekong Delta (메콩 델타 / 湄公河三角洲 / メコンデルタ) — pair it with a few days in Can Tho or Ha Tien and you've got a southern loop that most visitors never consider. It's not polished, not glamorous, and that's exactly why it's worth b the ferry ride.