Long An sits west of Saigon in the Mekong Delta (메콩 델타 / 湄公河三角洲 / メコンデルタ), and most travelers skip it on the way to Can Tho or Chau Doc. That's a mistake. The province has developed its own food culture — refined river-fish recipes, produce from islands, and a breakfast market culture that feels genuinely untouched by tourism.
You'll eat better and spend less here than in the capital. A full banh mi costs 15,000–20,000 VND. A bowl of "com tam" (broken rice) with pork and egg runs 18,000–25,000 VND. Sit-down meals at local restaurants are 40,000–80,000 VND per person.
The Fish: Snakehead, Catfish, and River Prawns
Long An's signature protein is "ca lang" (snakehead), a freshwater fish prized for its firm, delicate meat. You'll find it grilled whole, steamed with herbs, or sliced raw into "ca cay" (soured raw fish). The best version is in broth — the locals call it "canh ca lang", a light tamarind or lime-based soup with dill and root vegetables.
Snakehead is freshest and cheapest at Cho Tan Phu Market (Tan Phu Ward, Tan An city), the biggest fish market in the province, open 5–8 a.m. Whole fresh fish is 60,000–100,000 VND/kg depending on size. Nearby restaurants buy direct from the market and cook it to order.
"Catfish" (ca tra) is cheaper and feeds more — 40,000–60,000 VND/kg. The preparation is usually the same: grilled, steamed, or in soup. Local catfish farms line the Vam Co Dong and Vam Co Tay rivers (the "two Vam Co rivers" that define the province).
River prawns ("tom canh") are seasonal (October–March) and pricey — 300,000–500,000 VND/kg — but worth a single meal if you're there in season. They show up in curries, stir-fries, or grilled whole.
Where Locals Eat Breakfast
The morning is when Long An's food culture comes alive. Skip the hotel. Go to market.
Cho Tan An Central Market (Ly Thai To Street, downtown Tan An) is the hub. 5–7 a.m. is peak. You'll see stalls selling:
- "Banh mi (반미 / 越式法包 / バインミー)" with pâté and head-cheese: 15,000–18,000 VND. Banh Mi Tan An (stall #27) is the one locals queue for.
- "Hu tieu" (clear tapioca noodle soup) with pork and offal: 20,000–25,000 VND. The broth simmers overnight.
- "Com tam (껌땀 / 碎米饭 / コムタム)" with fried shallots, egg, and grilled pork: 18,000–22,000 VND. The broken rice is sourced from nearby mills in Chau Thanh.
- Grilled fish cakes ("[cha ca](/posts/cha-ca-la-vong-hanoi (하노이 / 河内 / ハノイ)-grilled-fish)") on rice paper: 25,000–30,000 VND.
A full breakfast (noodle soup + banh mi + coffee) costs 45,000–60,000 VND and will fuel you till afternoon.
Cho Tan Phu Market (mentioned above) also has excellent breakfast vendors, less crowded than Tan An. The fish cakes here are exceptional — made fresh from the morning's catch.
Signature Dishes You Won't Find Elsewhere
"Banh xeo (반세오 / 越南煎饼 / バインセオ)" (sizzling crepe) is common across the Delta, but Long An's version uses more pork fat in the batter and loads of river herbs. The ones at Banh Xeo Ngan (Hung Vuong Street, Tan An, ~9 a.m.–1 p.m., 25,000 VND each) are lighter and crispier than the tourist versions in Saigon. Wrap in lettuce, dip in fish sauce.
"Canh ca lang chua" (sour snakehead soup) is a regional specialty. The sourness comes from tamarind water, not vinegar, and the broth carries a delicate sweetness from the fish itself. You'll see it at casual noodle shops and restaurants around the central market. 30,000–40,000 VND for a big bowl. Com Va Canh (Ly Thai To near the market) makes a reliable version.
"Goi ca lang" (snakehead salad) is raw or lightly blanched fish mixed with herbs, crushed peanuts, and a lime-fish sauce dressing. It's served at upscale local restaurants and small family-run "nhà hàng". Less common than banh xeo, but worth seeking out. 50,000–70,000 VND.
River herb stir-fries — Long An grows "rau muong" (water spinach), "rau thom" (sawtooth coriander), and "rau dang" (amaranth greens) on islands in the Vam Co rivers. They're stir-fried with garlic and fermented shrimp paste ("tom cot"). 20,000–30,000 VND at street stalls. Taste crisp and slightly mineral.
Photo by Quang Nguyen Vinh on Pexels
Where Tourists Eat (and Why You Might Avoid It)
Tan An's main drag (Ly Thai To and Tran Hieu streets) has a few small hotels and a couple of "restaurants for tourists" — they're okay, but you'll pay 30–50% more for softer, blander versions of local dishes. Skip them.
Avoid any restaurant with laminated photo menus in English near the market square. The ones with crowds of local blue-collar workers and no English menu are your sign you're in the right place.
Where to Eat (Real Recommendations)
For fish: "Nha hang ca lang Tan Phu" (Phuong Trang Street, Tan Phu Ward). A simple open-sided shed with plastic chairs. They buy snakehead from the market at 6 a.m. and grill it whole by lunch. Ask for it "nuong" (grilled). 120,000–180,000 VND for a whole 1.5 kg fish, feeds 2–3 people. No booking, arrive by noon.
For broken rice: "Com tam Ben Tre" (Tran Hung Dao Street, near the market). Tiny place, seven plastic tables, open 6 a.m.–1 p.m. daily. The rice is from Chau Thanh (a rice-farming district in Long An). Fried shallots are crispy. 18,000–25,000 VND. Owner is friendly to English-speakers.
For noodles: "Hu tieu (후띠우 / 粿条 / フーティウ) My Tho" (Ly Thai To, a 2-minute walk from Cho Tan An). This stall is part of the market, not a separate restaurant. Opens 5 a.m., closes when they run out (usually 11 a.m.). Broth tastes like 12+ hours of pork bone reduction. 22,000 VND. Worth the early wake-up.
For river herbs and fish cakes: "Nha hang Sai Gon" (Ly Thai To, ground floor of a small hotel-like building). More upscale than street stalls, but still local-crowd. Fish cakes are grilled to order. Water spinach is stir-fried aggressively. 60,000–100,000 VND per person. Open 10 a.m.–9 p.m.
Photo by AN Nhol on Pexels
Costs
- Street breakfast (banh mi + coffee): 30,000–40,000 VND
- Sit-down lunch (rice, protein, 2 veg, soup): 50,000–80,000 VND
- Whole grilled fish (1.5 kg, 2–3 servings): 120,000–180,000 VND
- Dinner at "local but nicer" restaurants: 80,000–150,000 VND per person
You eat very well in Long An for half Saigon (사이공 / 西贡 / サイゴン) prices.
Practical Notes
Long An's main city is Tan An, about 50 km west of Saigon (1–1.5 hours by minibus or private car). The central market (Cho Tan An) is the hub; most food stalls are within a 5-minute walk. Markets are liveliest 5–9 a.m.; restaurants stay open till 8–9 p.m. Bring cash — many stalls don't take cards. Ask your hotel or a taxi driver to point you toward a restaurant if you're nervous; locals are used to travelers passing through.
Last updated · May 21, 2026 · independently researched, never sponsored.
