Bach Dang Giang Relic Site in Hai Phong: A Traveler's Guide

What it is

Bach Dang Giang is a large memorial and heritage park built along the Bach Dang River in Trang Kenh commune, Thuy Nguyen district — about 20 km northeast of central Hai Phong. The complex commemorates three separate Vietnamese victories fought on this stretch of river, spanning from the 10th to the 13th century. The most famous is the 1288 battle led by General Tran Hung Dao, who ordered iron-tipped wooden stakes driven into the riverbed to destroy an invading fleet at low tide.

The site opened in its current form in 2013 and covers roughly 200 hectares. It's part memorial, part landscaped park, part temple complex — and it's free to enter. Unlike many heritage sites in Vietnam (베트남 / 越南 / ベトナム) that feel hemmed in by development, Bach Dang Giang has room to breathe. The grounds stretch along the riverbank with wide paths, open courtyards, and actual quiet.

Why travelers go

Most foreign visitors to Hai Phong are passing through on the way to Cat Ba or Ha Long Bay, but Bach Dang Giang is worth a detour if you have half a day. The complex gives you a sense of Vietnamese historical identity that you won't get from a beach or a bowl of noodles — this is one of those places schoolkids across the country learn about before they can ride a motorbike.

For photographers, the site delivers. The main temple, the towering Tran Hung Dao statue (over 10 meters tall), and the river views line up well in the late afternoon light. On weekdays, you'll often have the place nearly to yourself.

Best time to visit

October through March is ideal. The weather in northern Vietnam is cooler and drier, and the park's open layout means you're exposed to the elements for long stretches. Summer months (June–August) bring heavy rain and thick humidity — not great for a site that involves a lot of walking outdoors.

If you want atmosphere, time your visit around the Bach Dang Festival, usually held in the third lunar month (roughly April). Locals come for ceremonies and traditional performances, and the site feels genuinely alive rather than like an empty monument.

How to get there from Hai Phong

From central Hai Phong (around Tam Bac Lake or the main train station area), Bach Dang Giang is about 20 km northeast. Your options:

• Grab car or taxi: 35–45 minutes depending on traffic. Expect 150,000–200,000 VND one way. This is the simplest option. Ask your driver to wait — there's no reliable ride-hail pickup at the site itself, and taxis don't cruise the area.
• Motorbike: If you're renting one in Hai Phong, the ride takes about 30 minutes via QL10 and the roads into Thuy Nguyen. Easy enough route, mostly flat, decent pavement. Parking at the site is free for motorbikes.
• Local bus: Bus route 01 from Hai Phong center runs toward Thuy Nguyen, but the last stretch to the site requires a xe om or walk. Only worth it if you're on a tight budget. Around 7,000–10,000 VND for the bus fare.

Photo by Tiểu Bảo Trương on Pexels

What to do

Walk the main temple complex

The central area includes the Tran Hung Dao temple, a memorial hall, and several smaller shrines. The architecture is modern but built in traditional Vietnamese temple style — heavy on red lacquer, dragon carvings, and incense. Take your shoes off before entering the main temple. There's a large bronze incense urn in the courtyard that makes a good landmark.

See the wooden stake field

A reconstructed section of the iron-tipped wooden stakes that Tran Hung Dao's forces planted in the riverbed sits near the river's edge. It's a simple display — just sharpened logs sticking out of the ground — but it clicks when you stand there and look at the water. You understand the tactic immediately.

Climb to the Tran Hung Dao statue

The large statue sits on an elevated platform overlooking the river. The staircase up is manageable, maybe 100 steps. The view from the top gives you the full sweep of the Bach Dang River and the surrounding countryside. On a clear day, you can see boat traffic heading toward Quang Ninh province.

Explore the riverside path

A paved walkway runs along the riverbank for a good stretch. It's flat, shaded in parts, and quiet. Locals use it for morning exercise. If you visit in the late afternoon, you'll catch fishermen working the shallows.

Check the exhibition hall

A small museum near the entrance displays replicas of weapons, maps of the historical battles, and some archaeological finds (pottery, arrowheads). Signage is mostly in Vietnamese, but the visual displays are clear enough. Budget 20–30 minutes.

Where to eat nearby

The area around Thuy Nguyen isn't a food destination, but you won't go hungry. A few local rice-and-noodle shops sit along the main road near the site entrance.

What's worth seeking: Hai Phong is famous for "banh mi" — specifically banh mi que, the thin, crispy baguette variety sold at street carts across the city. Grab a couple on your way back to town. The city is also known for its own version of "bun cha" with a slightly sweeter broth than the Hanoi style, and "banh canh" — thick tapioca noodle soup — shows up at market stalls in Thuy Nguyen if you poke around.

For a proper meal, save your appetite for central Hai Phong. The streets around Cho Sat market have good seafood at reasonable prices — crab with "banh mi (반미 / 越式法包 / バインミー)" dipping is a local move.

Where to stay

There's no reason to stay near the relic site itself. Base yourself in central Hai Phong:

• Budget: Guesthouses along Dien Bien Phu street run 200,000–400,000 VND/night. Basic but clean.
• Mid-range: Hotels near Tam Bac Lake or the opera house area go for 500,000–900,000 VND. Some include breakfast.
• Higher end: A few international-brand hotels operate in Hai Phong now, running 1,200,000–2,000,000 VND. Useful if you're also using the city as a base for Cat Ba trips.

Photo by Quang Nguyen Vinh on Pexels

Practical tips locals would tell you

• Bring water. There's a small drink vendor near the entrance but nothing inside the grounds.
• Wear comfortable shoes — the site involves a lot of walking on paved and unpaved paths.
• Dress modestly if you plan to enter the temples. Covered shoulders and knees.
• The site is free to enter but donations are welcomed at the temple.
• If you're combining this with a trip to Ha Long Bay (하롱베이 / 下龙湾 / ハロン湾) or Cat Ba, do Bach Dang Giang on the way — it's roughly on the route northeast out of Hai Phong.

Common mistakes to avoid

• Not arranging return transport. This is the big one. There are no Grab cars waiting at the site. Either keep your taxi or have your hotel arrange a round trip.
• Rushing through. People treat it as a 30-minute photo stop. Give it 1.5–2 hours to actually walk the grounds and sit by the river.
• Visiting midday in summer. There's limited shade on the main paths. The heat and humidity between 11 AM and 2 PM in July will flatten you.

Practical notes

Bach Dang Giang works best as a half-day side trip from Hai Phong, ideally paired with a seafood lunch back in town. It's one of those sites that rewards you for slowing down — the river, the quiet, the weight of the history. Not every day in Vietnam needs to be about the next bowl of "pho" or the next beach.